No trip to Sri Lanka is complete without a visit to the Peradeniya Royal Botanic Garden. If you’re touring the island and one of your stops is in the hillside town of Kandy (see article), the gardens are located just 6 km away, in the town of Peradeniya.

     I have visited it three times over the years, and each time discovered an area I had not seen before. But on my last visit in 2019, I decided to spend a whole day, leisurely wandering around and photographing the multitude of greenery and flora.

     While it is exquisitely designed and landscaped with over 4000 different plants and flora, for me the wild and naturally growing areas were just as fascinating. The high altitude and with more than average rainfall, the gardens are lush and verdant all through the year.

    The gardens are actually the largest of the five botanical gardens in the island. Its history goes back to the 14th century, when it was occupied by several kings of Sri Lanka, and eventually taken over and managed by the British. Soon after the kingdom of Kandy fell to the British in 1815, it was officially established as a botanical garden by the then governor of Ceylon, Edward Barns. From then on work enhanced as the gardens continued to flourish.

     The original tea seedlings were grown here along with plants brought from Kew Gardens in London, and with native plants from around the island. Over the decades plants from other countries were also imported. Various parts of the gardens were lovingly landscaped and managed by superintendents and horticulturists, while other parts were allowed to grow naturally.

     Today it is admired and enjoyed annually by nearly two million or so visitors - tourists, dignitaries, families, school trips and not forgetting courting couples.

     Most overseas visitors arrive in escorted groups and are unlikely to spend more than a couple of hours. If in a hurry, you can even hire an electric buggy with guide and drive around tarmac paths. But if you really wish to enjoy the garden’s wonders and pleasures, invest in a full day, and try and visit independently.

     Arrive early morning (7.30 when it opens), armed with a packed lunch (there is an overpriced cafe as well), plenty to drink, sun hat and camera/phone. If you can’t get hold of a map, just take a phone photo of the map at the entrance and stroll your way through different paths. By midday the sun can get blistering hot, but of course there’s no shortage of shady trees to rest under. There are plenty of picnic spots, like by the Mahaveli Ganga (Big River, the largest in Sri Lanka), that winds around most part of the gardens.

     Covering 146 acres, the garden is divided into several sections, such as Fern Garden, Flower Garden, Japanese Garden, Indoor Plant House, Bamboo Grove with giant bamboo from Myanmar, and a magnificent Orchid House. Many of the medicinal plants growing here have also been cultivated elsewhere in Sri Lanka and used in Ayurvedic treatment.

Cabbage Palm Avenue

Palmyra Avenue

    Royal Palm Avenue

     The are also numerous memorial plants throughout the garden, planted by heads of states, and distinguished visitors like astronaut Yuri Gagarin in 1962. The famous Cannonball Tree (Sal tree) was planted by King George V and Queen Mary in 1901. Since then the plant has gown into a tree with lots of fruit and unusually shaped colourful blossom.

     At the far end of the garden, is a suspension bridge, built around 1905 during the British rule, and spans 127 metres across the Mahaweli River to Gannoruwa village. Narrow, and just enough for just two persons to pass by, it has become a fun thing to do - walk across the shaky bridge and walk back.

     Although there are many flora of vibrant colours like Hibiscus, Bougainvillea and Heliconia, for many visitors, the pièce de résistance is the Orchid House. What started around fifty years ago with a small collection of mainly indigenous varieties, it has grown into a riot of colour, sizes and shapes. It now showcases more than a 100 species, such as Catlaya, Phalaenopsis, Vanda and Oncidium, to name the few that I’ve heard of. Photo opportunities abound with people photographing each other against floral backdrops.

    One of many rare trees you’ll find is the Double Coconut Palms (Coco de Mer), which originated in Praslin island in the Seychelles. The coconut seed is the biggest and heaviest nut in the world, and is a protected species. Another protected species are the Ebony trees. Its hard black timber was once used indiscriminately for ornamental wood carvings and furniture.

     You can’t miss the scenic little lake, with water plants and lilies.
A tiny island in the middle of it has one solitary tree. Around the lake lovely Bougainvillea bushes complete the picturesque sight.

Macaque Monkeys

    Fruit Bats

     But one should be vigilant about other wildlife like scorpions (large black ones) and poisonous snakes. They are rare - although I did come across a young cobra who immediately warned me by typically raising its head with spreading hood, then quickly disappearing into the bushes. Yes, it was a missed photo opportunity, but it alerted me to the danger too. I was later told that there are other snake species, but they usually keep away from people.

    The Flower Gardens attracts more beautiful wildlife, like butterflies I’ve never seen before. Cautiously approaching, I was able to photograph some and later identify a few as the Lemon (Lime) Butterfly, Tree Nymph Butterfly and Common Rose Butterfly.

     I expected to be tired after a full day in the tropical heat and humidity. But the early morning and late afternoon breeze, with rest stops taken in-between was comforting. Most of all, observing and appreciating nature in an unhurried and relaxing manner, ended my day much fulfilled.

     A visit to Peradeniya Gardens is a memorable experience where you get to admire the beauty of nature combined with the extraordinary landscapes, making it one of the finest attractions in Sri Lanka. Don’t miss it.