My first early morning drive took me up Nakkerd Hill to the site of the 45 metre tall Big Buddha. Built on the highest point of the hill, the statue is one of the most important landmarks in Phuket. It is also the third tallest Buddha figure in Thailand. The concrete statue layered with milky white jade marble looked stunning with the morning sun glistening on it. With dazzling 360 degree views across the countryside and small walking paths,
I was not ready to hop back into the car and be driven away in a hurry.

     Around the temple grounds and interior are several other Buddha statues, both large and small. There is no entrance fee, but an interesting donation is to purchase a small ‘gold’ heart leaf, write your wish and add to one of the Bo trees around the temple grounds.

Chalong Temple

Chalong Temple, chedi

     Back at ground level, we headed for Phuket’s largest temple site - Wat Chalong (aka Wat Chaitararam), built in the early 19th century. Lee, my driver said “take your time, there’s a lot to see here”. He was right. The complex contains several buildings, landscaped gardens with fountain, shrines,
statues and bell tower.

     Dominating the site is the three floored 60 metre tall Phra Mahathat Chedi. It was built to store sacred Buddhist relics (not visible to visitors), including a part of the shoulder bone of the Buddha.

     Stepping inside, I was overwhelmed by the elaborate walls and ceilings covered with paintings and murals depicting the life of the Buddha and his teaching, and numerous golden Buddha statues in different postures. Climbing up to the top floor and a walk around the balcony offered a wide view of the temple site and gardens below. A quiet and peaceful stroll around the gardens was broken by the arrival of the first coach full of tourists.

     Back to the car, Lee took me to a nearby stall for a coconut water drink (chilled fresh coconut, with the top cut off). It was so refreshing, as the sun was high up and getting warmer.

     Thirty minutes drive through dense traffic towards the southern tip of Phuket, is the village of Rawai. It’s the home to people known as Sea Gypsies, who eke out a living mainly by fishing. Arriving there by mid morning, I walked to the end of the jetty to enjoy the views, and watch the boats arrive from a night out at sea, and hauling their catch onto the shore.

     Hardly anything has changed in their traditional lifestyle, although tourism has slowly but surely crept in, with souvenir stalls, shops, and small overpriced restaurants, interspersed with the local fish markets. The one long road along the coast is the best way to observe their daily activity, mending nests, boat repair, and distributing their catch to various market stalls. Stepping out onto the beach where a row of colourful fishing boats were lined up, I was thankful not to see any jet skis or parasails. However, with the growing influx of tourists, how long Rawai can sustain its village life and culture remains to be seen.

     North of Phuket island is Sarasin Bridge, which connects to mainland Thailand’s Phang Nga Province. And around 60 km drive further up is Khao Lak, an area of national parks, hills, rain forests and waterfalls.

     Although there are many coach tours from Phuket, which include bamboo rafting and temple visits, I preferred to follow a similar itinerary by car with my driver. Passing by mile after mile of rubber plantations, we came to Khao Sok river, in a cool jungle setting. Here we waited for while until our guides unloaded their rickety looking bamboo rafts into the river. Maximum of two persons per raft, I was helped onto one of them, as we gently glided downstream, surrounded by pure tropical forest scenery. Although the boatman expertly steered the raft with a long bamboo pole (similar to punting) through the shallow river, there was no way of avoiding your bottom getting drenched. The hour long ride was a thoroughly enjoyable experience.

     My next stop was at the Ton Pling Waterfall. Nothing extraordinary about the falls itself, except for the beautiful scenic background. A coach full of tourists were already there, in for a swim. As I had brought a picnic lunch with me, I decided to share it with Lee, and shaded under a tree, we watched the bathers relishing their time in the cool flowing water.

Khao Lak, Bamboo Rafting

Ton Pling waterfall

     In the tropical forests near the town of Phang Nga, and inside a huge limestone hill, is the Suwan Khuha cave temple, also called the ‘Wat Tam’ or ‘Temple Cave’ and is an essential visit. It is one of southern Thailand most important temples and a Buddhist spiritual landmark. Entering the largest of the four caves named Thai Yai, the subdued lighting combined with the limited natural light created a mystical atmosphere.

     The dominant figure inside is the 50 foot (15 metre) magnificent golden reclining Buddha. There are a number of other Buddha statues too and a chedi. Spread around the site are some shrines where you can light incense and say a prayer. Most worshippers however preferred to make flower offerings in front of the reclining Buddha.

     Some stalactites and stalagmites decorate the caves, and a colony of bats reside within, although I didn’t see any. You can climb further inside and upward onto an open area which leads into the forest. Back outside the temple grounds the macaque monkeys are waiting. And people too, waiting to sell you food to feed them.

Suwan Khuha Cave Temple, reclining Buddha

Entrance to the cave temple

    I could not go back home without succumbing to at least one escorted excursion, and what better than to the ‘James Bond Island’ (Khao Ping Kan) at Phang Nga Bay. Since the 1974 movie ‘Man with the Golden Gun’ was filmed there, it hasn’t ceased to draw sightseers to this iconic island. The cruise to the island itself past some other islands with beautiful limestone outcrops and cliffs is breathtaking.

     It was a pleasant surprise not to find boatloads arriving all at the same time. Once landed, you were given a couple of hours to wander about the island at your own pace. There is no doubt, the location and scenery of this island and it famous little outcrop Ko Ta Po is inimitable. Photo opportunities abound with just about every visitor having to have their photo taken to say ‘I’ve been there’.

     I did spend another week, idling around Kata beach area, and yes, despite the crowds, I could still find a quiet spot of the beach all to myself.