That’s the beauty of Antigua
Ask any Antiguan about their best beaches, and they will tell you that “there are 365 - all are best beaches man, one for every day”. Sounds like a catchphrase, but it could be true if one is to count every sandy niche found throughout its coastline.
Whatever the number, there is no denying that the two-island nation of Antigua & Barbuda never fails to impress the tropical sun seeker. While each opinion may differ when asked where the best beaches are, for the holidaymaker, with so much choice, it can pose a little dilemma.
Laid back and slow-paced, Antigua I discovered is primarily a place of serenity and a sunbathers paradise. Although on my visit I stayed at two resorts, I also had the opportunity to visit several other seaside retreats and enjoy the day in total relaxation mode. Setting a towel down and spending hours on a sunbed, seeking a perpetual tan is not my thing. Nevertheless, my curiosity was drawn to explore what insane craving pulls in so many tourists to spend their two precious weeks’ holiday basking on a perfect sandy beach. From soft powdery coral sand to fine golden sandy shores, it’s perfectly understandable why the visitor can’t get enough of Antigua.
Antigua is not renowned for tons of sightseeing, gallivanting, and lush greenery like some other Caribbean islands. Most of the island’s interior is flat. There are no mountains (the highest point is only 400 metres above sea level), no rivers, waterfalls, and only a few small streams. But what it lacks in dramatic tropical scenery, the island makes up for it with its spectacular coastal pleasures. And for the history buff, some extremely well preserved sites offer an insight into its African heritage and British colonial past.
But let’s get the ‘beach scene’ culture in focus first. All seashores, whether located by resort hotels or secluded little spots, are accessible to all. If you wish to visit and sunbathe in several locations during your stay, car hire is useful. Most of the tourist patronised beaches are on the north, west and south sides of the island. A local map also helps, although driving at a speed limit of 40 miles per hour (20 in built-up places), you’re very unlikely to get lost.
I was not looking for specific places to go but made a few notes talking to Antiguans and took their recommendations. All the places I visited had beachfront resort hotels, or restaurants and bars close by. Many also had sunbeds and towels to rent for the day. In addition, there were plenty of watersports and sailing activities. It is a common sight to see a row of colourful sunfish sailboats lined up along the oceanfront, inviting you to leave your shoes behind and take to the sea. In no particular order, these are some of the places I visited and spent at least a couple of hours at each location.
Beach after beautiful beach...
Hawksbill Bay
There are four beaches here, although I spent my time in only a couple of them. You can use the Hawkbill Beach Resort facilities provided you dine there. Most of the beach is smooth and sandy with a few rocky areas. A walk along it will take you to an old restored sugar mill, that’s now a small gift shop.
Hawksbill Beach
Dickinson Bay
Situated northwest, this is a busy coastal expanse, due to several hotels, restaurants and bars on site. But it has a perfect white sandy beach, with plenty of water sports activities. There are no secluded areas to sunbathe, but if you want to just laze away the hours, sun lounges and sunshades can be hired. Come late afternoon, when many visitors gather to watch a dramatic sunset.
Halcyon Cove Beach
Also located in Dickinson Bay, with a couple of resort hotels, it is also a fairly crowded affair, and like other beaches in the bay area, offers plenty of seaside activities for the energetic and watersports enthusiasts.
Dickinson Bay
Mamora Bay and beaches
Located in the southeast of the island, it is more secluded and quieter, yet with all the comforts of an upscale resort. The white sand beaches are complemented with calm turquoise blue waters. And if you’re feeling extravagant, drop in for lunch at the nearby St James Club Hotel.
Mamora Beach
Morris Bay beach
This picturesque coast is lined with coconut palms, a clear calm sea, and a pier for large yachts to dock. Behind the palm-fringed backdrop are a few food vendors, and also picnic tables in the shady areas, making it a good place for a day out. The golden sand seashore curves its way towards the prestigious Curtain Bluff hotel.
Morris Bay
Half Moon Bay beach
This lovely crescent-shaped coastal area is blessed with a pristine white coral sand beach. Driving towards the bay you get a panoramic view from the hillside road. As it’s a little remote, I was advised to pack a lunch and drinks, in addition to my swimwear essentials. Apart from the beach, there are small cliffs that are part of a hillside national park, that has nature trails, and mango tree plantations teeming with fruit.
Half Moon Bay
Jolly Beach
A rather quirky name (named after its harbour), yet one of the most popular, and beautiful beaches on the whole island. Its mile-long stretch attracts visitors from other resorts, who indulge in a variety of motorised and non-motorised watersports, day/evening cruises, and seaside activities. It’s a well developed resort in itself, with beach bars, restaurants, shops and a nearby golf course. Sip a cocktail or two, and as the evening draws in, expect to enjoy another spectacular sunset.
Jolly Beach
Discover one of the finest views of the Caribbean
Shirley Heights
Shirley Heights
One of my most enjoyable days out was to drive uphill, about 500 feet above sea level to Shirley Heights lookout point. Looking down towards English and Falmouth Harbours, the view is considered the iconic image of Antigua. Repeatedly claiming to be the best view of the island and beyond is no overstatement.
Historically, the site was once a military lookout point and gun battery. To avoid the afternoon crowds, and busy nights, I arrived early morning. A stroll around the grassy landscape, with a gentle breeze, was a good time to explore the area and the ruins of the old fortifications. Then I headed toward the edge to admire the fabulous views around and below. Unfortunately in my view, in recent years, its natural scenic location has become a venue for evening entertainment, outdoor concerts, functions and weddings. A couple of old military buildings have also been converted into a restaurant and bar, and barbecue parties have become a regular event.
Nelson’s Dockyard
Nelson’s Dockyard and English Harbour
Named after Admiral Horatio Nelson of the British Royal Navy, and established as an important naval base within its harbour, it is a well preserved historic site. Many of its 18th-century buildings have been carefully restored. The Dockyard Museum and the Admiral’s House, which has a wooden bust of Nelson can be visited.
The beautiful English Harbour, adjacent to Falmouth Harbour with its marina and luxury yachts, are picturesque sites to walk around. There are also several short nature hikes in the vicinity. The gardens, park, and old boathouse in the compound are neatly landscaped with palm trees and flora. There are of course restaurants, gift shops and is a pleasant place to spend a whole afternoon. Falmouth Harbour is also within easy reach - just 10-minute drive away. The location, along with Shirly Heights is recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Nelson’s Dockyard, marina
Nelson’s Dockyard, capstan
Betty’s Hope Sugar Mills
Like many other Caribbean islands, their economy was defined through slavery and the production of sugarcane. Named after the daughter of the plantation owner, Betty’s Hope is the site of one of the oldest and largest sugarcane fields, that date back to around 1674. It’s a reminder of Antigua’s darkest past, and today, just two windmill towers have been restored and are on view, along with an information centre.
Antigua’s churches
From Christian Baptist to Catholic and many other denominations, tourists are welcome to join in service or simply visit. Architecturally some are quite diverse. The baroque-style St John’s Anglican Cathedral, with its twin towers and cupolas, dominates the capital’s skyline and is clearly visible when arriving by sea. Travel inland towards the village of Tyrrell, and you can’t miss the pretty Our Lady of Perpetual Help Catholic Church, also called the colourful ‘pink church’.
St John’s Cathedral
The ‘Pink Church’
A walk around St John’s
The small seafront capital of Antigua with its cruise ship port is an ideal place to wander about. If you’re into shopping, the colourful souvenir and designer goods boutiques along Redcliffe Street (by the cruise ship terminal) have everything you might wish, although a little overpriced. If you like to buy an original painting, there are several outdoor stalls where one can negotiate a price with the artist or vendor.
St John’s, seafront
For a more local flavour, venture further into the Farmers Market, full of exotic fruits and vegetables. The museum of Antigua and Barbuda is also worth a visit. It traces the island’s history from the early civilizations, with ancient exhibits to more contemporary times, like a statue of the famous cricketer Viv Richards. If you decide to hang around till lunch time, try Hemingways restaurant (you can’t miss the green and white building) or Captains Table restaurant serving typical Caribbean cuisine. They are two places I dined at.
Fort James
Built as Britain’s defence against invasions, remnants of this 17th-century fort can be found near St John’s harbour. Nothing much to see except for a few canons. However, when visiting St John, a slight detour is worth the time.
Fort James
Local art for sale
Hemingways restaurant
Nightlife
There is no shortage of evening entertainment. Most hotels offer a good selection for the holidaymaker. They all have the regular steel band performances, calypso singers, and limbo dancing which you’ll also be able to partake in. Hotels can also arrange trips to local clubs and venues for music and cultural shows (although I did not visit any).
For an island just 14x11 miles, and with a population of 97,000, Antigua is diminutive in size. Yet it maintains an enviable reputation as one of the glamorous hot spots in the Caribbean. The pace may be slow but is geared to cater to a well-earned relaxing holiday for the visitor. Its tourist infrastructure is well developed and appeals to a wide age group.
Despite my lack of enthusiasm for seaside holidays, I was still impressed by its picturesque coastline and found Antigua to be one of the best island destinations I’ve travelled to. As for my favourite beach, it was a difficult choice. Maybe like the man said, “they are all best beaches”.
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