Up early morning, I was by the waterfront to see the activity begin with workers clearing the litter-strewn streets from previous day, and vendors setting up their stalls for the day ahead. Already the boat race competitors were gathered in groups in preparation for the regattas (similar to the Chinese Dragon Boats), with each boat able to carry around 100 people. The boats are usually sponsored by donors and government ministers. And the boaters arrive a day or two earlier to practice on the river.

     As I walked along the still uncrowded promenade, many participating groups were singing, some dancing, and a couple even tried to persuade me to join in. There didn’t seem to be much of a competitive atmosphere, but more like a time of  communal fun, as many different boating groups joined together in merriment and anticipation.

     By 10 am the waterfront had got busy, with many spectators taking seating positions by the riverside to watch the action, and in-between the food vendors were set up and ready.

     Soon the loudspeakers blared along the 3 kilometre long Sisowath Quay, announcing the beginning of the races. The competitors, each crew dressed in brightly coloured T-shirts were being given final briefs by their coach or presumably captains, as the they moved down to the river banks and onto their boats.

     The signal was given and groups of 3 or 4 boats suddenly sped vigorously forward with crowds cheering them on. The man at the bow of each boat would keep frantically blowing his whistle and shouting words of encouragement at the rowers to go faster. Several races would take place with around 15 minute breaks in-between, until lunch time and resume again later. The winners were to be announced at the end of the last day.

     The Water Festival is also very much a family event. Grand parents to grand children to babies in arms gathered in small groups, seated on the floor wherever they could find some space, and either shared their picnic food, or grabbed a bite from a nearby vendor.

     While some of the street food snacks looked appetising, deep fried insects like crickets and grubs sold by the cup full, were an acquired taste. One unusual item a woman who was buying it explained to me, was Bamboo Sticky Rice - rice mixed with beans, coconut milk, stuffed and roasted in bamboo canes. She let me try a tiny bit which tasted slightly salty, but not much flavour. What I couldn’t resist was the spit-roasted chicken on skewers for just $1 and to go with it, cool coconut water, also $1.

     The ice cream and iced water sellers were doing brisk business, in the tropical heat. There were also many non food stalls, selling anything from sun hats to souvenirs, toys and clothing. But vendors did not pressure you into buying anything. As most people have a basic understanding of English, it was also easy to make small talk and mix with the crowds. And it was particularly useful when buying from food stalls.

Worshippers at Dorngkeu Shrine

Traffic chaos, but no road rage

     But the evening just didn’t end there, as the restaurants and street food stalls with delicious aromas wafting around kept busy way into the late night. It was difficult not to indulge, and I found trying one or two small items from different food stalls was the way to taste the local food while strolling along the promenade.

     Without warning, a tropical shower came pelting down dispersing the crowds to find shelter. But it didn’t last long. And it did not mar the joyful event. Just as suddenly the rain came, it had gone, and everyone was back on the streets.

     What was special about this festival was also, that despite the hive of activity, there was a laid-back and casual atmosphere to the whole event. Nothing was rushed, except the speeding boaters. People had come from faraway towns and remote villages to the big city to be part of a centuries old tradition. And I was lucky to be there too, to enjoy and be part of it.