SINGAPORE, Little India, colourful buldings, house of Tan Teng Niah, SIN1184JPL 4000 A 1120

Enjoying Singapore’s cultural patchwork

     Is Singapore a city, country or an island? Apparently, it’s all three, which makes it an exceptional place on earth. And what can be said about Singapore that hasn’t been said before? And a question that still remains - why is it called Lion City? No one knows for sure, except that it comes from  the Malay words ‘Singa’ and ‘Pura’ meaning ‘city of lions.

     So instead of  lengthy introductions and history of this place, I prefer to simply share a few of the sights and attractions that inspired me to visit it twice. For a small island, just 50x27km (31x17 miles), there’s a lot to see, and if you think a short break in Singapore would satisfy,
it would be a mistake.

Merlion statue - symbol of the ‘Lion City’

SINGAPORE, Marina Bay, Merlion Park, Merlion statue, and city skyline, SIN1210PL A 800

     If you’re first time visitor, it may be useful to get acquainted with some basic knowledge of what to expect. Renowned as a 21st century efficient clean city, it also has an enviable public transport system. My first priority arriving at Changi Airport was to purchase a MRT tourist pass that gave me unlimited public transport travel. The city exudes with luxury accommodation and expensive shopping - don’t expect your Pound to go further like other Far Eastern countries. And as for cuisine - it’s a food addicts paradise.

     One of the most eye pleasing features of Singapore is how it has managed to combine modern architecture with nature, green spaces and fauna - even some Otters have made it their home by the riverside. Main shopping streets like Orchard Road, are paved with trees and flowering shrubs giving it a pleasant eco-friendly vista. Architects in developing the Marina Bay area have ensured that in-between all the concrete and glass, there’s always some green area for relaxation.

     Singapore is also one of the most multicultural and multi-ethnic places in Asia. Dissecting the island, you will find distinct neighbourhoods, like Chinatown, Little India and Arab Quarter, all which should be explored separately. Then there’s Singapore’s Botanical Gardens and Chinese & Japanese Gardens. For pure pleasure seekers and sunbathers, there Singapore's very own playground island - Sentosa. And finally the island’s pièce de résistance Gardens By The Bay. These are places I have visited more than once. But if your time is limited, a few half day and evening tours might just give you a glimpse of  the city, and prompt you for a week or two visit the next time.

     Digressing a little, one of the coolest things I found was especially during the midday heat, was to simply board a double decker bus, head upstairs, sit by a window in air-conditioned comfort, and go wherever the bus takes you, and watch the passing scenery. There’s always something of interest that will stir you to get off have a look around. Anyway, getting back to my favourite places:

Marina Bay, green spaces’

SINGAPORE, Marina Bay promenade, lily pond, and Singapore skyline, SIN1303JPL A 625

Duxton Hill, shophouses

Chinatown, Pagoda Street

SINGAPORE, Chinatown, Duxton Hill, traditional shop-houses, SIN848JPL A 700
SINGAPORE, Chinatown, Pagoda Street, with shop-houses and stalls, SIN822JPL A 417

     Chinatown: Not everything you see in Chinatown is Chinese. Even in this one neighbourhood, Singapore’s multiethnic culture is visible, with Buddhist temple, Hindu temple and mosque all on one street. It’s a very walkable area, in a maze of streets with colourful shop houses, markets, clubs, wine bars, and needs a full day, and into the night to appreciate its diversity. I started the day early morning at the Wet Market, busy with freshly brought in seafood, and noisy fruit and vegetable stalls.

     Taking a short diversion from Chinatown brought me to Duxton Hill and Duxton Road, noted for its colourful shophouses. These historic terrace houses dating back from the 19th century have been carefully restored and is a quaint and quiet locality to explore. Then it was off to temple sightseeing, and honestly could not see everything in one day as I had planned.

Wet Market, vegetable stalls

SINGAPORE, Chinatown Complex Wet Market,  vegetable stalls, SIN865JPL 4000 A 440 deep

Buddha Tooth Relic Temple

SINGAPORE, Chinatown, The Buddha Tooth Relic Temple & Museum, SIN581JPL A 513 deep
SINGAPORE, Chinatown, The Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, main hall and monks, SIN591JPL A 770

     The Buddha Tooth Relic Temple & Museum is a large multi storey structure that was built in 2007. Devotees regard it houses the left tooth of the Buddha and is contained in a large gold stupa. The main hall and colourful interior has hundreds of small sculptures, and a centrepiece of  deity statues.

     While I was there, a group on monks entered and were praying. Not wishing to intrude, I was only able to spend a few minutes quietly observing the surroundings. Due to lack of time, I was also unable to explore the upper floors which has a museum, artefacts, and a rooftop garden.

 Amitabha deity

SINGAPORE, Chinatown, The Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, Amitabha statue, SIN585JPL A 300

Thian Hock Keng temple

Thian Hock Keng temple, Moon goddess

SINGAPORE, Chinatown, Thian Hock Keng Temple, SIN966JPL A 770
SINGAPORE, Chinatown, Thian Hock Keng Temple, The Moon Goddess, SIN981JPL A 513 deep

     Thian Hock Keng Temple is one of the oldest in Singapore. Typical Chinese style architecture, you enter a lovely courtyard, with huge incense burners, and onto the shrine room with carvings and figures of deities. It’s unique too, as the entire temple is built of tiles, wood and stone, and without the use of any nails.

Yueh Hai Ching temple

SINGAPORE, Chinatown, Yueh Hai Ching Temple (Wak Hai Cheng Bio), sculptures, SIN991JPL A 850

     A short walk from Thian Hock Keng and looking tiny against a backdrop of skyscrapers, is Yueh Hai Ching (Yuehai Qing) Temple. This 200 year old Taoist temple is an example of traditional porcelain craftsmanship with figures of animals, flowers and pavilions on roof tops and interior, as well a relief paintings and mosaic work.

Not everything you need to see in Chinatown is Chinese....

     Sri Mariamman Temple, built in 1827, is the oldest Hindu temple in Singapore in honour of Goddess Mariamman. It’s a fine example of Davidian (South Indian) style architecture. From the gopura (grand tower) entrance and throughout the site, it’s full of vivid statues of deities and statues depicting folklore tales. Note that taking photos require a donation of SGD3 as I was gently reminded when walking around clicking away with my camera.

     Just a stones throw away from Sri Mariamman you cannot miss the pale green facade and minarets of the Masjid Jamae Mosque. Guided tours are offered to visitors, and again, due to lack of time unable to explore inside.

SINGAPORE, Chinatown, Sri Mariamman Temple, SIN737JPL A 600

Sri Mariamman temple, Ganesh - elephant god

SINGAPORE, Chinatown, Sri Mariamman Temple, statues of deities, SIN767JPL A 850 cropped
SINGAPORE, Chinatown, Sri Mariamman Temple, entrance tower (Gopuram), SIN742JPL A 373
SINGAPORE, Chinatown, Sri Mariamman Temple, statues of deities, SIN765JPL A 560 deep
SINGAPORE, Chinatown, Masjid Jamae (Masjid Chulia) mosque, SIN952JPL A 373

Sri Marianman temple, gopura entrance

Masjid Jamae Mosque

And not everything you need to see in Little India is Indian...

     Like Chinatown, Little India not only boasts some fine Hindu temples, but also Chinese temples and mosque. It’s one of the most colourful neighbourhoods (take a walk along Serangoon Road), with a surplus of small shops, silk, flowers, spices and of course restaurants. At lunch time the fragrant aromas of food being prepared, drew me to a nearby open air restaurant, and gorged myself in a rice and curry meal served on a banana leaf.

SINGAPORE, Little India, colourful buldings, house of Tan Teng Niah, SIN1181JPL A 850

Tan Teng Nia villa

     In the heart of little India is one of the most photographed buildings - home of Tan Teng Nia, an important Chinese businessman, who established sugar and rubber factories nearby. Built in 1900, this unusual bright multi-coloured two storey villa is well preserved and is a historic landmark.

Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple, priest at small shrine

Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple

SINGAPORE, Little India, Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple, Hindu priest at shrine, SIN790JPL A 400
SINGAPORE, Little India, Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple, SIN776JPL A 373
SINGAPORE, Little India, Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple, statues of deities, SIN787JPL A 373

Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple, golden chariot

SINGAPORE, Little India, Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple, golden chariot, SIN631JPL A 450 deep

     Close by, the Sri Veeramakaliamman Hindu Temple is a another landmark. And Like the Sri Mariamman in Chinatown, the 18 metre high gopura is decorated with bright colourful sculptures. Enter the site, and it is festooned with shrines, mythical figures and deities.

     Further along Serangoon Road is one of the oldest temples - Sri Srinivasa Perumal, built in the 1850’s. Dedicated to Lord Vishnu, it also had an imposing gopura entrance, and the temple courtyard has a host of paintings, and sculptures of gods and goddesses.

     Although the architecture, imagery and sculptures may look similar in Hindu temples, I loved visiting them, to appreciate its heritage and respect being in the presence of rich cultures and faiths.

Stall selling flowers for temple offerings

SINGAPORE, Little India, stall selling flowers and floral garlands for temple offerings, SIN802JPL A 415 deep
SINGAPORE, Little India, Temple of 1000 Lights (Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya), giant Buddah statue, SIN638JPL A 450
SINGAPORE, Little India, Leong San See Temple, SIN949JPL A 600 deep

Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya Temple

Leong San See Temple

     There are also a couple of Chinese temples in the vicinity. Along Serangoon Road is the Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya Temple. Inside the central statue is a huge 15 metre high seated Buddha figure. Surrounding the aura of the figure are hundreds of light bulbs, often lit when a donation is made - hence the nickname  ‘Temple of a 1000 lights’.

     Along Race Course Road, is the small Leong San See Temple. The roof top of the entrance facade has elaborate carved dragon figurines. Inside are several Buddha figures, including a golden Buddha. It’s a tranquil environment, allowing worshippers to pray and meditate in peace.

SINGAPORE, Little India, Abdul Gafoor mosque, SIN1179JPL A 700
SINGAPORE, Little India, Abdul Gafoor mosque, SIN1176JPL A 484 deep

Abdul Gafoor Mosque

     Not to be missed is Abdul Gafoor Mosque. Built in the 1800’s and renovated in 2003, it’s a beautiful and rather unusual structure, combining Islamic, Roman and Indian Saracenic architectural styles. The elaborate entrance facade is decorated with an intricate green sundial, depicting 25 Islamic prophets.

Kampong Glam

Kampong Glam, Sultan Mosque

SINGAPORE, Kampong Glam, Arab Quarter, Sultan Mosque, Bussorah Street shop-houses, SIN1506JPL A 750
SINGAPORE, Kampong Glam, Arab Quarter, Sultan Mosque, SIN1477JPL A 390 wide
SINGAPORE, Kampong Glam, Arab Quarter, Haji Lane, Murals, SIN1502JPL A 600
SINGAPORE, Kampong Glam, Arab Quarter, Haji Lane, SIN1494JPL A 600

Haji Street, street art

     South of Little India is the famous Arab Street. Actually it is more than one street and part of the Kampong Glam area, and regarded as home of the Muslim community. In its heart is the Sultan Mosque, the largest in Singapore, with its huge golden colour dome. The streets around are full of colours, with restored shophouses, quirky fashion outlets, street art (you’ll se some at Haji Street), and an abundance of restaurants and cafes.

SINGAPORE, Kampong Glam, Arab Quarter, Haji Lane, Murals, SIN1498JPL A 230 deep

Haw Par Villa

SINGAPORE, Haw Par Villa, dioramas, SIN562JPL A 770
SINGAPORE, Haw Par Villa, pagodas, SIN542JPL A 540 deep

     For something different, spare an hour to visit Haw Par Villa. Previously known as Tiger Balm Gardens, it is considered Singapore’s largest outdoor art gallery in a park setting. The gaudy painted statues (over a thousand of them) and background sets and dioramas depict Asian culture, with folklore stories, mythology and religion.

Botanical Garden, Orchid Garden

SINGAPORE, Botanic Gardens, Orchid Garden, archway of Oncidium Orchids, SIN1042JPL A 850

     Botanical Gardens: The only tropical botanic garden in the UNESCO World Heritage Site, this is one pleasurable place you cannot afford to miss. It’s greenery scenery at its best. Arrive early morning (opens at 5am), and avoid the midday sun. Entrance is free. Although free guided tours are available, I preferred to arm myself with the map provided and explore at my own pace. There are several themed gardens like the Heliconia Walk, Bonsai Garden, Foliage Garden, a small Rain Forest and more.

     But for me the immaculately landscaped National Orchid Garden (SGD15 entrance), was the best. With over a 1000 species and hybrids, of all colours and shapes, including the national flower ‘Vanda Miss Joaquim’, it is a sight to behold. There are many free standing sculptures around the gardens, like the Chopin sculpture donated by the Polish embassy. As the midday sun and humidity became uncomfortable I was glad of the shady foliage and dropping in for a cool drink of coconut water and snack at an on-site cafe.

Vanda Miss Joaquim

SINGAPORE, Vanda Miss Joquim orchid (Singapore national flower), SIN1633JPL A 300
SINGAPORE, Botanic Gardens, SIN1004JPL A 373
SINGAPORE, Botanic Gardens, Heliconia Walk, Chopin sculpture, SIN1015JPL 4000 A 373
SINGAPORE, Botanic Gardens, giant lily pond, SIN1016JPL A 373

Botanical Garden, Chopin sculpture

     Chinese & Japanese Gardens: Together, these gardens are peaceful environments, and are quiet places to relax and enjoy. The Chinese Gardens feature a huge seven storey ‘cloud piercing pagoda’ and twin pagodas by Jurong Lake. There are lovely walking trails along tall shady trees, as well as flora like Hibiscus, Allamanda, and Frangipani all in full bloom. The exquisite Japanese garden design evokes in the shady pavilions, arched bridges, beautifully laid out paths, animal sculptures, stone lanterns and lotus ponds.

Chinese Garden

 Japanese Garden

SINGAPORE, Jurong Chinese Garden, SIN1458JPL A 650
SINGAPORE, Japanese Garden (Seiwaen), SIN1470JPL A 650

     Sentosa Island: Of all the small outer islands, Sentosa is the most visited by Singaporians and tourists alike. It is primarily a resort island, with attractions like the Sea Aquarium, Universal Studios, Water Park, Mega Adventure Park and many more. Getting there is easy, by road, monorail or Cable Car as I chose to. While the entrance to the island is free, you have to pay for most of the attractions and rides. If you’re with family and wish to indulge in the activities and entertainment, a ‘Fun Pass’ is your best option.

     For a real tropical island feel, head towards one of the beaches, like Palawan Beach, with a long stretch of sand and swaying coconut palms. I visited during the weekend, and the place was certainly crowded, although I did find wandering towards the beaches, a more deserted spot underneath the shade of a palm trees and sip a drink of ice cold beer from a drinks stall.

SINGAPORE, Sentosa Island, Merlion, and Sentosa Express (light railway), SIN720JPL A 450 deep

Sentosa Island beach

SINGAPORE, Sentosa Island, Palawan Beach, SIN695JPL A 770
SINGAPORE, Sentosa Island, Palawan Beach, and coconut trees, SIN683JPL A 540 deep

Add Gardens By The Bay to your ‘bucket list’....

     This is undoubtedly Singapore number one attraction, Gardens By The Bay is the most visited, photographed and should be on your ‘bucket list’. Built in 2007, it is described as a showpiece of horticulture and garden artistry.

Gardens By The Bay

SINGAPORE, Gardens by the Bay, and Supertree Grove, SIN477JPL A 850

     The sheer abundance of plants and flora (over 1.5 million) and large conservatories, is just staggering. It is not a place you can whiz past in an hour or so. Several greenhouses, like The Flower Dome, with hundreds of varieties of orchids and other flora seems unreal. Outdoors, amongst the diverse landscaped areas are Frangipani trees with blooms of different colours, and Rose Apple trees teeming with fruit. The iconic feature of the gardens are the giant ‘Supertrees’ - structures rising up 50 metres, to which thousands of plants and flora are attached. And for a canopy view of the gardens and beyond, there is a walkway around roof top ‘Observation Deck’ connecting a dozen trees.

Giant conservatories

Supertrees, aerail view

SINGAPORE, Gardens by the Bay, conservatory, SIN463JPL A 560
SINGAPORE, Gardens by the Bay, view from Marina Bay Sands SkyPark, SIN1269JPL A 560
SINGAPORE, Gardens by the Bay, Jambu (Rose Apple) fruit tree, SIN926JPL A 200 deep
SINGAPORE, Gardens by the Bay, Hibiscus flower, red, SIN903JPL A 200 deep
SINGAPORE, Gardens by the Bay, Frangipani (Plumeria) flowers, yellow, SIN900JPL A 200 deep
SINGAPORE, Gardens by the Bay, Frangipani (Plumeria) flowers, deep red, SIN894JPL A 200 deep

Rose Apple fruit, Hibiscus, and Frangipani flowers

     Stay long enough to watch the twice nightly ‘Garden Rhapsody’ when the Supertrees  come alive with a 15 minute dazzling light and sound show. For an aerial view of the gardens and beyond, take a lift to the 57th floor of the Marina Sands Hotel Skypark (observation floor), which costs SGD25.

‘Garden Rhapsody’ show

SINGAPORE, Gardens by the Bay, Supertree Grove, illuminations, SIN480JPL A 850

     As the evening draws to a close, the city skyline dazzles and reflects on the waterfront. Around 8pm, The Marina Sands Hotel puts on a spectacular 15 minute display of dancing fountain jets, and lasers. Later, a stroll around the Marina Bay, and past the famous Merlion statue, will certainly build up an appetite.

Marina Sands Hotel show

Merlion statue

SINGAPORE, Marina Bay, Marina Bay Sands, light and water show, SIN1146JPL 4000 A 700
SINGAPORE, Merlion statue, night view, SIN573JPL 4000 A 420

...and finally, don’t forget, it’s a food addicts paradise

     Dining in Singapore is an event in itself. While ‘Michelin star’ restaurants are plenty and are in the high pricing bracket, very affordable eating in the form of hawker centres can be found almost everywhere and in every neighbourhood. Day or night it’s busy, as they are also places to gather and socialise. The atmosphere is casual, and don’t expect to have a table all to yourself. And sharing with your fellow diners prompts conversations on what’s excellent and what you must try.

     The selection of food is immense, like Hainanese chicken rice, Laksa - spicy noodle soup, Barbecued Stingray, Satay and Chilli Crab to name a few. My favourite food court is at ‘The Shoppers’ in the lower ground floor of the Marina Sands Hotel. Though a little pricy, it is exquisite, and kept me coming back several times, especially after a walk, for a thirst quenching ‘Ice Kachang’- a mound of shaved ice, topped with red beans, jelly (agar agar), sweet corn and sweet syrup.

     If you fancy a night out a a high end restaurant, try a traditional fondue style ‘Steamboat’ dinner, where you cook fresh meats, seafood and vegetables in a pot of boiling soup.

SINGAPORE, Ice Kacang (Baobing) desert, SIN430JPL A recomposed 350
SINGAPORE, Ice Kacang (Baobing) desert, SIN431JPL A 350

Thirst quenching Ice Kachang

SINGAPORE, seafood restaurant dishes, SIN1625JPL A recomposed 281 deep
SINGAPORE, Hawker Centre, vendor cooking Sate, SIN1603JPL A cropped 281 deep
SINGAPORE. Traditional 'Steamboat' dinner 370

Chilli Crab, Satay vendor, Steamboat Dinner

     Singapore has for decades been referred to as a great stopover city on route to your final destination. Yes, you might see a couple of sights and attractions in a few days, but if you want to experience all that this compact country has to offer, then a couple of weeks will do nicely. After my two visits, would I be inspired for a third trip? Definitely.

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