Northern Thailand
Most visitors to Thailand spend a few days in Bangkok, and then it’s off to a beach resort for a couple of weeks. For others, taking a short flight up to the hill country in the north opens a differently fulfilling experience. And if you’re also culturally minded, and enjoy the sights of beautiful Wats (temples) and nature, a visit to Chiang Mai, or Chiang Rai, or both is mandatory. Three hours by car separate the cities. Both are compact and easily explored on foot. While Chiang Mai is bigger and busier, Chiang Rai is more laid back and quieter.
For those with an insatiable appetite for culture
Elaborate sculpture art at Wat Chetawan, Chiang Rai
So what’s special about the north?
Once you’ve seen one temple, you’ve seen them all, right? Wrong!
Yes, thousands are similar in architectural features and appearance. But a closer look will reveal its intrinsic differences. And there’s no better place to observe these than in the temples of Northern Thailand. It is estimated that there are between 35-40000 places of worship throughout the country, a vast majority of which are Buddhist, of which around 270 are Royal Temples. Some are in ruins but preserved, and appended by erecting recently built temples amidst the ancient sites.
Blending the ancient and modern
Nearly all sacred places and shrines have several common structures, with added religious and mythological statues. They all have the large ubosot (ordination hall), which is the main steep multi-tiered roofed building - the epitome of 13th century Thai Lanna architecture. A short flight of steps leading to the interior of the hall is decorated on either side by naga (serpent) or lion guardian figures. The interior will also have one or more seated Buddha statues. And that’s as far as the familiar elements go. Everything else in architecture, design, and its outward appearance is what vastly sets sites apart from others. Some are so different, they don’t even look like the traditional Buddhist temples at all. Others are simply pure works of art and an assortment of different architectural styles.
Wats are not simply places of worship. They are a peaceful environment to relax or reflect. Here you can also immerse yourself in history, archaeology, art and architecture. One cannot help but marvel at feats of sculpture, colour and detail that must have gone into building and decorating. Despite Thailand being a Buddhist country, many thousands of temples also adopt Hinduism and other faiths, which are clearly visible in their representations.
Culturally motivated travellers and history buffs cannot resist revelling in exploring these architectural wonders. The average holidaymaker though may only get a brief glimpse of a few of the most popular places as part of their itinerary. If you visit the northern region, even if you’re not an enthusiast, I would urge you to make time to see more of the magnificent sights, and preferably explore them independently, and not on a group tour.
Rather than lengthy descriptions of each temple (there’s plenty of info on the Internet), I have chosen my favourites to entice you with a pictorial essay and show their differences.
My favourite Chiang Rai Temples
Wat Phra Singh
The exterior may look new, yet it is one of the oldest temples in the city. Elegant structures, guardian lions and nagas, and a Sri Lankan style chedi add to the beauty of the place. I was lucky enough to visit during a local ‘thanksgiving to the monks’ festival with cultural dancers and music adding to the happy event.
Wat Phra Sing
Ubosot interior
Wat Phra Sing, relief art in the viharn
Garden statues
Wat Phra Kaeo
The premises houses a replica of the Emerald Buddha (sculptured from green jade), the original being located in the Grand Palace in Bangkok. The site also has a substantial two-storey museum.
Wat Phra Kaeo, Emerald Buddha
Wat Phra Kaeo, museum
Wat Rong Khun (White Temple)
Created by the celebrated artist Chalermchai Kositpipat, this is one of the most unusual and unique modern temples in Thailand. It is more a work of pure art and architecture than a place of worship. Although much has been written and filmed about it, you have to see it to be amazed by its stunning all white buildings, embellished with intricate carvings and mirrored glass.
Wat Rong Khum (White Temple)
Wat Rong Khum site sculptures
Wat Rong Khum site - Golden Temple
Wat Rong Seua Ten (The Blue Temple)
Located just outside the city centre, this recent structure was completed in 2016. Contradicting the conventional gold colours and style of a traditional Wat, the artist deliberately turned everything, from buildings to statues, and mythological characters into a variety of hues of blue - azure, cyan and cerulean. Only the ubosot trimmings and motifs are gold in colour. This is another unique dazzling place to visit.
Wat Rong Seua Ten (Blue Temple)
Wat Rong Seua Ten (Blue Temple), sculptures
Wat Klang Wiang
Completed in 1432, this gorgeous temple is graced with a lovely array of ornate decorative work on the buildings and a three-tier white chedi surrounded by decorative elephant statues. The elaborate ubosot exterior walls are decorated with relief art of mythological and animal figures.
Wat Klang Wiang
Wat Klang Wiang, ornate buildings and statues
Wat Jed Yod (Wat Chet Yot)
The main ordination hall’s facade with a naga staircase has the typical appearance of many other temples. However, inside is a large seated smiling golden Buddha statue, and a ceiling depicting an astrological fresco. The ubosot windows are also stunning with golden metal work with deity figures. Behind the main building is also a white seven-spire chedi.
Wat Jed Yod, ceiling fresco
Wat Jed Yod, interior, large golden smiling Buddha
Wat Jed Yod, metal art on window frames
Wat Chetawan (Wat Phra Non)
Entering through a historic brick gateway, you’re faced with the ubosot which has a large reclining Buddha. Unfortunately, it was closed the day I visited. On the grounds is also a beautifully designed viharn with intricate carvings and sculptures, as well as a small museum and chedi.
Wat Chetawan, exquisite relief carvings
Wat Chetawan, historic gateway
Wat Sri Bun Rueang
The intense colour and intricate art on the temple’s main building alone are worth seeing. The compound is surrounded by potted plants and flora, which adds to its beauty. There are many naga creatures on staircases, deity statues and rooftop decorations with mythical creatures, and a golden stupa.
Wat Sri Bun Rueang
Wat Sri Bun Rueang, grand rooftop sculpture
Wat Phra That Doi Chom Thong
Built on a hilltop, the central feature of this 19th century temple is the 14 meter high Burmese and Lanna style golden pagoda. There are also Hindu and Buddhist deity statues spread around the compound. From the grounds are several scenic views of the surrounding area below. Adjoining is also the site of the City Navel Pillar constructed in 1987.
Wat Phra That Doi Chom Thong, golden pagoda
Wat Sri Kerd
Once you enter through the gates with lion guardian statues on either side, you face the temple’s golden facade of the ubosot. A most unusual feature is two lengthy coiled nagas (serpents) guardians on either side of the entrance staircase.
Wat Sri Kerd, guardian lion statue
Wat Sri Kerd, coiled naga (serpent)
From Chiang Rai’s temple sights to other sights
While my trip was focused mainly on visiting temples, from Chiang Rai there was plenty of other sightseeing within the city as well as further out. Here are a few places I visited.
Chiang Rai, Kok River
Chui Fong Tea Plantation is a popular tourist attraction. The drive along the gently sloping hills through the terraced tea landscape to get there is quite a picturesque sight.
Chui Fong Tea Plantation
The Black House (Bann Dam Museum)
This is one of the most unusual and surreal museum sights you’re ever likely to come across. The property has around 40 Thai style structures spread around its grounds, with a few accessible to visitors. Designed by the controversial local artist Thawan Duchanee, the main sanctuary hall depict a rather dark, even resembling a spooky movie set. Skulls, horns, skins, weird artworks and furniture are some of the exhibits and represent some unsavoury traits of human nature.
Bann Dam Museum
Golden Triangle Lookout Point
From the northernmost area of Chiang Rai, is a scenic point to view the borders of Thailand, Myanmar, and Laos. Separated by the Mekong River and Ruak River, it was once the hub of drug trafficking between the countries. More about it can be learnt at the House of Opium Museum.
The old city of Chiang Saen
One of the main attractions of this historic town is taking a walk among the ruins of the ancient Wat Chedi Luang. Many of the chedis are damaged and archaeologists have worked to preserve as many as possible. The remains of an old stupa reaches 88 meters in height and is the tallest in Chiang Rai.
Golden Triangle Lookout Point
Ruins of the 88 metre tall stupa
My favourite Chiang Mai Temples
According to Wikipedia, there are 117 Buddhist temples in Chiang Mai. Here are some of the places I enjoyed most.
Wat Phra Sing (not to be confused with the temple in Chiang Rai).
This temple complex with a large ubosot is surrounded with a fabulous assortment of classic Lanna style buildings in a landscaped garden setting. And it looks spectacular at night when it’s all lit.
Wat Phra Sing complex
Wat Phra Sing, landscaped gardens
Wat Phra Sing, library building
Wat Chedi Luang
One of the most visited sites in Chiang Mai. Wat Chedi Luang site dates back to the late 14th century. Its huge 80-metre high reliquary surrounded by a moat and giant naga balustrades is the central feature. Several other buildings, like the grey facade of the Bhuridatto Viahra, are outstanding examples of typical Lanna style art. The expanse around is scattered with statues of kings and queens and has a shrine with a large golden reclining Buddha.
Wat Chedi Luang, one of the most visited sites
Wat Chedi Luang, Bhuridatto Vihara
Wat Chedi Luang, entrance gateway
Wat Sri Suphan (Silver Temple)
Completed in 2016, this is a unique and rather unusual interpretation of traditional Lanna design and art. Considered the world’s first ‘silver sanctuary’ the entire ubosot is built from an alloy of aluminium and zinc as well as pure silver. The glittering exterior has amazing carved statues and relief etchings of ancient Buddhist stories, as well as modern panels depicting some countries. The dark interior uses mirrors that reflect the silver surfaces. Being a monk’s ordination hall also, only men are allowed inside. There are several other statues outside including a ‘silver’ Hindu Ganesh statue.
Wat Sri Suphan, ubosot interior
Wat Chedi Luang, considered the world’s first ‘silver sanctuary’
Wat Chiang Man
Claimed to be the oldest temple in the city, as well as the oldest royal temple in Chiang Mai, it was built in the late 13th century, during the reign of king Mengrai. The outstanding highlight is the huge golden chedi that is surrounded at its base by 15 stone-carved elephant statues. There are two ordination halls, elaborately decorated in gold and red, with various golden Buddha and deity statues.
Wat Chiang Man, ordination hall
Wat Chiang Man, golden chedi
Wat Chiang Man, deity statue
Wat Suan Dok
This is both a royal temple site and a royal cemetery, with whitewashed tombs and mausoleums. Adjoining it is a 48 metre high Sri Lankan style golden pagoda surrounded by smaller white chedis. The enormously large and wide viharn (ordination hall) has numerous Buddha and guardian statues, as well as huge back-to-back standing and seated Buddhas. The spacious building with tall colourfully decorated pillars has plenty of architectural design and art to admire.
Wat Suan Doc, royal temple and cemetery
Wat Suan Doc, large Buddha statues
Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, golden pagoda
Wat Phra That Doi Suthep
Don’t leave Chiang Mai without a visit here. 1000 metres above, atop a mountain overlooking Chiang Mai, and the surrounding valley, this temple is one of the most sacred in all of Thailand and the most visited site in the city. Getting there along the winding uphill road, you’re in for a treat. Apart from the main golden pagoda that dominates the complex site, the place is full of Buddha statues, deities, mythical and animal sculptures, shrines and gardens. Unfortunately the morning I was here the mist and rain obscured the scenic views of the greenery below.
Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, Buddha statues and other deities
Wat Phuak Hong
Hidden along a narrow street off the main road, this small temple site may not have much o explore, but it does have the ruins of an ancient multi tiered brick built circular chedi. The structure with niches on each of the seven tiers that once contained Buddha images.
Wat Phuak Hong, ruins of ancient chedi
Wat Rajamontean
It is also known as the ‘red temple’, because of its deep red - almost maroon colours and gold. There is also a large seated Buddha statue in the temple compound. Apart from the intricate gold relief decorations, the temple has some stunning mythological creatures and guardian statues draped over the stairways.
Wat Rajamontean, large seated Buddha
Wat Rajamontean, gold relief decorations
Wat Sai Moon Muang
The entrance to this 15th century temple’s ordination hall is guarded by two yaksha (demon) figures. And inside, the walls are lined with colourful murals depicting Buddhist scriptures. Flanked by are the usual pagoda, a smaller ubosot building and several female deity statues.
Wat Sai Moon Muang, murals
Wat Sai Moon Muang, demon guardian
Wat Pan Sao, ruins of the circular pagoda
Wat Pan Sao
Although not popular on the tourist must see list, it’s nevertheless a beautiful and tranquil place. It has delightful landscaped gardens, with several historic statues and modern sculptures. The central feature is the ruins of a circular pagoda dating back to the 14th century. Inside the ubosot is a beautiful golden seated statue of Lord Saeng Kham Muang - a sacred Buddha.
Wat Pan Sao, garden statues
Wat Saen Muang Ma Luang
Hidden among the back streets, this large temple site can easily be missed. It’s an unusual and impressive composite of Burmese style architecture. Most of the buildings are deep red to maroon and white, with golden-yellow gilt decorations. The site accommodates several imposing statues of the Buddha, Brahma and Ganesh deities. The variety of spectacular buildings, bell tower and ruins of an ancient brick chedi add to the grandness.
Wat Saen Muang Ma Luang
Buddha statue
Wat Saen Muang Ma Luang, ancient brick chedi
Brahma statue
Wat Chang Taem
The three-tiered roofed viharn of this small temple site should not be overlooked. The entrance is guarded by two white nagas extending along the entrance steps. The exquisite interior is adorned with five seated Buddha statues, all in a gilded golden setting.
Wat Chang Taem, golden interior
Wat Ku Tao
Nicknamed the ‘Temple of the Gourd’ due to the 17th century pagoda’s resemblance of five melons on top of each other. The viharn built on two levels is impressive with a five-tier roof. At the base of the building, the walls are decorated with colourful stucco reliefs of scenes from Buddhist scriptures and mythology.
Wat Ku Tao, five-tier roof viharn
Wat Lok Moli
Ruins of the massive 14th century chedi dominate the temple site. The grounds are well worth exploring too, for the many beautiful old and new, Buddhist and Hindu statues.
Wat Lok Moli, massive chedi
Wat Muen Toom
This temple site cannot be missed, due to its imposing and elaborate gateway, crowned with colourful sculptures of apsonsi, serpents, and other mythical figures. The ubosot entrance is particularly attractive with deva (guardian god) figures finely carved on the doors.
Wat Muen Toom, mythical figures
Wat Muen Toom, imposing gateway
Wat Phan Tao
Located next to Wat Chedi Luang, Wat Phan Tao is also considered one of the oldest temples in the city. The grand viharn is an all teakwood construction on a stone base. The entrance facade is exquisite, with gilded carvings of a peacock and other animals. At the temple grounds is also a bell shaped golden stupa.
Wat Phan Tao, teakwood viharn
From Chiang Mai’s temple sights to other sights
Doi Inthanon National Park is a huge scenic region easily accessible from Chiang Mai. As mentioned, the rainfall does wonders for the greenery of the hill country. Waterfalls are full and gushing, and nature hikes through damp forests intensify the colours.
Ang Ka Nature Trail
Some of the nicest places to see are the Wachirathan Waterfall and Siritah Waterfall. Closeby is also Ang Ka Nature Trail, a short walk along a wooden platform path through the forest teeming with exotic trees, plants and ferns. The walk also takes you to the highest point in Thailand at 2,565 meters (8,415 feet). The Karen Hill Tribe Village is worth a visit just to see the bright green rice field landscapes. Walk a short distance uphill to the village to settle down for a freshly brewed coffee from a water kettle boiled by firewood.
Wachirathan Waterfall
Siritah Waterfall
Karen Hill Tribe Village, rice fields
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Visiting Hill Tribes - to see or not to see
For decades this has been a controversial issue. It has shown that overtourism has had a definite destructive effect on minority groups.
I recall visiting a village in Mae Hong Son more than thirty years ago. I was able to observe the local lifestyle and enjoy being in their presence.
Today much has changed. Several hill tribes have had to neglect their traditional lifestyle and turn it into what has also been interpreted as a 'dehumanizing tourist attraction’. Some ethnic groups have been coerced into turning parts of their village into shopping streets, with stall after stall selling mostly factory-manufactured souvenirs. The villagers are usually dressed in their traditional attire to pacify the tourist with the camera. Some tourists also misbehave - loud-mouthed and forcing themselves into their stalls and taking selfies with the tribespeople, showing absolutely no respect for them. I abhorred the words of a guide who when going to a village, crudely commented “now we go to see the long necks”.
Unfortunately, these communities do depend on the income from tourists, and if you decide to visit,, do buy something, as I am told that the earnings go directly to the vendors. I visited a village as part of the itinerary on a tour and was saddened by what I saw. However, there are also genuine tours to villages with overnight stays with an insight into their local life, which I regret not visiting.
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FACT FILE:
When to go:
For me, the best time was during the worst time - the rainy season! Provided you’re kitted up with a brolly or waterproof clothing, it has its advantages. For a start, the crowds are far less. Hotel prices are lower, and it’s perfect for visiting temples at your own pace. At some sites, I was the only visitor, prompting the monks to chat with me and make me feel welcome. When I was there in September, it rained almost every day. But the tropical downpours which can last up to an hour quickly disappear dispersing the black clouds and letting the sun pierce through. The saturating colours of the hill country scenery, and the cooler temperatures, enhance the atmosphere.
Getting there:
There are twice-daily flights from Bangkok to Chiang Rai and around five daily to Chiang Mai. There is a bus service between the two cities. I opted for a three hour taxi journey.
CHIANG RAI:
Where to stay:
I chose the famous Legend Boutique River Resort, just a mile outside the city centre. It’s located right by the banks of the Kok River with spectacular scenery. The hotel grounds itself is beautifully landscaped with lush greenery resembling a botanical garden.
Eating out:
Restaurants are spread around the city rather than concentrated in specific areas, except for perhaps ‘Walking Street’, or the night market for street food. Therefore you need to choose the venue of your choice, and take a Tuk Tuk ride to those places.
CHIANG MAI:
Where to stay:
The De Lanna Hotel was my choice, purely for its location, being right in the city centre, and with numerous temples, many within very short walking distance.
Eating out:
Restaurants and bars are plenty, even in the low season. And if you’re into street food, there are several places to explore, and food at the Sunday Market in Rachbury Street is not to be missed.
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