Exploring France’s Emerald Coast
If the weather is good, France’s northern coast from Brittany to the edge of Normandy is spectacularly beautiful. Unfortunately, the day we arrived at Saint Malo it poured with rain, and my hope of a week of exploration spoiled any anticipation of a sunny week.
However, the elderly waiter who served us at the tiny restaurant in an alleyway of the old town assured me “it will be parfait from tomorrow monsieur”. And so it was. Up bright and early next morning, enjoying some delicious Pain au Chocolat (Chocolate Croissants) and piping hot coffee, we were ready to explore and see Saint Malo in all its glory.
The town’s ramparts
One of the best ways to enjoy this fortified town is to walk the tall ancient granite ramparts that enclose it. Built between the 14-18th centuries it has several bastions, canons and towers. The two-kilometre loop offers picturesque coastal views of sandy beaches, the port and forts. On the opposite are the narrow streets inside the old town. You can get off several places and explore parts of the town centre and get back on the wall again.
Beach by the ramparts
This walk is a must both in the morning as well as in the evening - especially to admire the sunset. Some of the best views are of the Le Petit Be and The National Fort, both of which are accessible on foot when the tide is low. On the ramparts, you will come across a monument statue of Jacques Cartier - the 15th-century mariner who also ‘discovered’ Canada. Even at a stroll-pace, the walk around the walls will take just over an hour. You can download a map showing points of interest as you walk along.
Jacques Cartier statue
Le Petit Be fort
Java Cafe puppets
Back in the town centre, many of the streets are teeming with fine dining establishments as well as tiny coffee and patisserie places tempting you to sit down and enjoy the views. One unusual and immensely popular is the quirky Java Cafe (its actual name is the lengthy Le Café du Coin d'en Bas de la Rue du Bout de la Ville d'en Face du Port - La Java). Inside, from ceiling to flow, every space is packed with traditional old puppets, dolls, old posters and flea market objects. If you don’t have time for dining, at least drop in for a locally brewed beer or cider.
After a look inside the Saint Malo Cathedral, take a stroll around the narrow streets and browse the small shops. At night, the traffic-free cobble-stoned areas are paved with plenty of restaurants, ideal for alfresco dining.
Saint Malo Cathedral
Marche de St Servan
Marche de St Servan
Figurehead of the Etoile du Roy frigate
A visit to the Marché de St Servan, covered market is a delightful experience with freshly brought in seafood as well as fruit and vegetables. In the outdoor area is the flea market which will entice you to buy souvenirs and antiques.
By the main gateway to the town centre is the picturesque port. Here you will find artists immersed in painting the scenes before them. The key attraction here is also the beautifully restored 18th-century Etoile du Roy frigate, that attracts many visitors to visit.
Sightseeing along the Emerald Coast
Just 30 minutes drive west of St Malo on the ‘emerald coast’ of north Brittany is the resort town of Saint Lunaire. On the way, you’ll pass countryside views of sheep grazing in green pastures, and the sea beyond, prompting a quick photo stop. Saint Lunaire’s main focal point is, of course, the beach life.
Saint Lunaire
La Grande Plage is the largest of the four sandy beaches in the area. Wide and long, it is a perfect spot to soak up some sun or indulge in several water sports activities like sailing, windsurfing and kayaking. At both ends of the beach are rocky headlands. Take a short walk towards the stone cross at Point de Décollé for excellent views on either side. There are also several coastal paths and hiking trails for nature lovers. The tourist office at the east end of the beach can assist with information about walks in the vicinity.
Saint Lunaire, La Grande Plage
Point de Decolle, lookout point
Saint Lunaire, coastal paths
Along the broad promenade are the usual cafes, small boutiques and several guest houses prompting you to stay overnight a enjoy the place at leisure. In the town centre is also an 11th-century Romanesque church in which the sarcophagus Saint-Lunaire is laid to rest. This is very much a family friendly resort, with beach huts to rent, and children's activities. It is easily accessible and parking is close to the beach.
Saint Briac sur Mer
Just 10 minutes drive still westbound is Saint-Briac-sur-Mer. Considered a jewel on the northern coast, this small resort was once a fishing village. There are several gorgeous sandy beaches like the Plage du Béchet which is closest to the town centre. There’s not a lot to see in the town centre except for the 17th-century church and some lovely stone-built cottages lining its narrow streets. And like Saint Lunaire, it’s a hiker’s paradise with nature walks in abundance. You can’t miss the picture postcard scenery of the coast with Nessay Castle (now a hotel) in the background and with Petit Port Marina and moored boats. Its exceptional viewpoints and the natural beauty of the coastline have inspired
and drawn famous French artists such as Paul Signac and Renoir to set up easels and paint.
War memorial
Sand Yachting along the Emerald Coast
Well worth another overnight stay, and if you’re lucky, head down to the beach to watch some sand yachting (wheeled boats with sails). There is also a small memorial to the US soldiers who died here during world war II.
One of the most visited sites in France...
An hour’s drive east from San Malo is one of the most visited sites in the whole of France. Mont-Saint-Michel is a magnificent sight jutting out at sea in the Bay of Brittany, although located in Normandy. It is one of the first listed UNESCO World Heritage sites. This compact medieval walled city was built on a huge granite outcrop in the sea. Driving along the scenic countryside, you can spot it from miles away, as it stands alone in the distance with the flat foreground landscape. Prior to visiting, and to appreciate the grandeur of this iconic landmark, it is important to read and aquatint oneself with a little history, which dates back to the 8th century.
It’s possible to spend an entire day here, although at the height of the tourist season (which was when I visited) it is thronged with tourists. Despite the crowds, it is best not to rush and take in the vistas as you climb the steps leading to the peak and enjoy the stops on the way. And yes, there are too many souvenir shops, restaurants and even hotels crammed in between the narrow streets. Yet it’s no deterrent to enjoying the sights along the uphill path.
Mont-Saint-Michel’s peak is dominated by the grand gothic Abbey. Well preserved, there’s plenty to admire, with its enormous naves, cloisters, mosaic floors and sculptures. Both religious and military architecture around, it reflects that this once centuries old monastery also had a turbulent past.
Mont Saint Michel Abbey
Paroissiale Saint-Pierre Church
Elsewhere, take time to explore the nooks and crannies, viewpoints and if time permits one of the four museums. The small Paroissiale Saint-Pierre church with its striking stained glass windows is also worth a look. And when the going gets a bit arduous, pause at one of the many cosy cafes for a Brandy Crepe and coffee.
Getting there: There is a car park nearby, and from there one has to take a shuttle bus along the causeway and alight around half a mile from the mount itself. You can also walk the whole distance as we did on ourreturn, just to enjoy the views along the way.
Mosaic floor in the Abbey
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There are several resorts and pretty towns along the Brittany Coast that can be visited depending on how much time you have. We spent a week staying one night in the smaller towns and the rest in Saint Malo.
Note: Most little villages and resorts can be enjoyed on foot or by cycling. However, to explore Brittany and reach these places, a car is essential. You can pick up your rental car if you’re flying to Dinard Airport. Driving from the UK, crossing by ferry from Poole or Portsmouth to San Malo is also convenient.
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