Small Country Big Heart
Bahrain is the hidden gem in the Middle East. It’s an island nation that has so much culture, history and packed with attractions, it would be hard to fit it all into a fortnight holiday. It is a country of hospitable people, that welcomes visitors and happy to share their traditions and heritage with you. Nearly half of its 1.7 million population are drawn to it from overseas, who have made it their home and place of work.
Just 760 square kilometres (290 sq miles), it is surrounded by around 30 other islets, some which are man-made. The main island is connected by a 25km causeway that leads to Saudi Arabia.
Not renowned as a beach holiday destination, Bahrain in primarily a journey of discovery and cultural fullfillment. However, at the end of your holiday if you persist on a few days of sunbathing, there are a few public beaches as well a pristine private ones at high end hotels.
Causeway connecting to Saudi Arabia
Dilmun period, burial mounds
The country’s history goes back more than 5000 years to the Dilmun Civilisation around 3000BC. Although Arab rule constituted throughout its history, there was a period in the 16th century when it was part of the Portuguese Empire, and more recently in the 19th century as a British protectorate, until its independence in 1971. In 2002 officially became an Islamic constitutional monarchy.
Today, it’s a 21st century hi-tech city with modern architecture and skyscrapers, and is one of the primary financial hubs in the Middle East. Dominating the capital Manama’s skyline is the iconic 50 floor twin World Trade Centre towers - the first of its kind to integrate wind turbines to generate electricity.
Creative architecture
National Museum
Where to go, and what to see...
I have been fortunate enough to have a family of friends, who extend their generosity every year when they invite me to leave the dreary British winter and spend it with them at their beautiful home and gardens. Thus I have been able to see more of this country each time I visit. After several trips, I’ve put together a few of my personal favourite sights and places that hopefully would inspire other travellers.
Exploring Bahrain at leisure without wheels is almost impossible. Here the car is as vital as an household item as your fridge or TV is. Although there are some escorted day trips and tours, they only cover a few main attractions that would suit a short stay visitor. With excellent highways and byroads, getting around by hire car is the perfect way to choose where to go and what to see.
Forts, Mosques, Markets, Souks, and a wildlife sanctuary - Bahrain has plenty. It also has a good selection of Museums, and for an overview of its history and culture, a visit to the Bahrain National Museum is a good start.
National Museum
Bahrain Fort
Bahrain Fort
It’s surprising to know, that for a country so small, there are three massive forts, all built during different eras. Located in the north of the capital Manama, Qal'at al Bahrain, (Bahrain Fort) is the most famous. Listed as a UNESCO world heritage site, it is also an archaeological site dating from the ancient Dilman civilisation to the sixth century Portuguese period. Surrounding the site, are several archaeological digs and parts of the ruins have been lovingly restored. From its hilltop position is a good skyline view towards the city centre.
In the old town area of Riffa, is Shaikh Salman Bin Ahmed Al Fateh Fort (Riffa Fort). Built in the early 19th century, much of it well preserved, and features a huge rectangular facade, with a lovely interior courtyard and several chambers.
Riffa Fort
Riffa Fort
Also well preserved is the 15th century Arad Fort, in Muharraq island. Strategically placed to keep invaders out, it is located by the sea front. In the courtyard are displayed some artefacts like traditional dhows (fishing boats), and canons. Climb up to the top of the fort, where the canons were once placed, for an excellent view of Manama in the far distance.
Arad Fort
If you’re an enthusiast in history as well as architecture, some of the grand old residences like Shaikh Isa's residence in the old town of Muharraq is well worth the visit. It’s a beautiful 19th century house with courtyard, wind tower, elaborate wood carvings and stained glass panels.
Al-Jasra House, in Budaiya area, is another lovely early 20th century home of former king Sheik Isa Bin Sulman Al Khalifa. Inside reflects the lifestyle of that period, from living rooms and guest rooms to kitchens, full with exhibits.
Shaikh Isa’s residence
Al-Jasra House
Al-Jasra House
There are some beautiful mosques in Bahrain I was privileged to visit. The oldest Al-Khamis Mosque built in the 7th century is actually an archaeological site. Although there is not much to explore, what remains today are two magnificent identical minarets that have been painstakingly restored.
One of the largest mosques in the world, and the largest in Bahrain, is the modern Al Fateh Mosque. It can accommodate up to 7000 worshippers. I have visited it twice, on the first occasion I was graciously welcomed and offered a free tour and refreshments, and on the second, on a Bahrain Open Day, when cultural activities were put on and everyone was welcome to partake and enjoy. Architecturally it’s one of the most attractive buildings, and to crown it, is the largest fiberglass dome in the world.
Burial Mound fields are an unusual site for visitors. These tombs go back to the Dilmun civilisation. There are several sites and estimated 12,000 burial mounds. They are also an archaeological site and recognised by UNESCO. Driving around the western part of the island, you’ll come across these by the roadside.
Al-Khamis Mosque
Al Fateh Mosque
Al Fateh Mosque, courtyard
Fiberglass dome
I am not a supporter of Zoos and animals kept in captivity. So it was with slight trepidation that I decided to take a look at Al Areen Wildlife Reserve. It’s a large open space covering 7 square kilometres, where many of the animals and birds can freely move, except for a few that are limited to a more confined space. Its a chance to see upclose the Arabian Oryx, once nearly extinct.
Run by conservationists, the aim is to protect endangered species, and encourage wildlife both in Bahrain and throughout the Arab world. It was unusual to see flamingos, cranes, ibis and egrets wander freely alongside people. The park area and beautifully landscaped, and teeming with over hundreds of species of plants and flora.
One of Bahrain’s mystical places is ‘The Tree of Life’. A natural wonder, this 400 year old lone tree rises from the desert and is nurtured by a deep underground water source that still remains a mystery. Nothing spectacular to see, but the nice drive to get there and the surrounding desert scenery, make the trip worthwhile. Unfortunately the tree is being damaged by those climbing it or carving graffiti.
Tree of Life
Al Areen Wildlife Reserve, Arabian Oryx
Al Areen Wildlife Reserve, gardens
If the cliché ‘shop till you drop’ matters, then Bahrain will not disappoint. Places like City Centre, Seef Mall, Moda Mall and The Avenues, are just a few of the grand shopping spots every visitor must at last have a peak at.
Seef Mall
The Avenues
For, me, nothing beats the local markets and souqs. Right in the heart of the capital is the Manama Souq. This busy market place is a maze of narrow streets and alleyways packed with small shops and stalls selling everything except maybe a motor car. The spice market is a delightful area to meander in with neatly laid out spices, huge bags full pulses, dried fruits and nuts.
The nearby Gold Souqs display shop fronts dazzling with bangles, chains and pearls, and you won’t find anything less than 18 carat gold here. Almost all the towns have souqs and the more rural ones like in Isa Town are interesting, if you have the time to visit.
Spices on display
Manama Souq
Gold Souq
Even if you don’t buy anything, the huge busy Central Market in Manama is where you’ll see hundreds of stalls selling all the fruits and vegetables you can possibly imagine. And at the nearby Fish Market, you will find Bahrain’s favourite fish Hamour. There is also a larger open-air fish market in Hidd by the seaside where the seafood is brought in directly from the boats by the harbour side.
Manama, Central Market
Hamour fish
To see some traditional fishing boats (Dhows), head for the corniche in the Financial Harbour area of Manama. By the waterfront are dozens of moored boats, and as the evening draws in, they begin to leave out into the ocean for a nights fishing.
In my travels, I have come across many ‘Farmers Markets’. The one in Bahrain in the town of Budaiya is one of the best, with friendly vendors and its casual atmosphere. Open every Saturday from December to April, it is set up in the Budaiya botanical garden. You cannot help but buy something here, as the fresh fruit and vegetables are so cheap compared to usual supermarket prices.
Stall after stall is full to the brim with produce vying for your business. Chillies of all colours, tomatoes of all sizes and shapes, purple peppers, yellow and purple cauliflower - the whole place is a riot of colour. There are also crafts stalls, food stalls and areas in the gardens to sit and relax. Some cultural events are also held here almost every Saturday.
Budaiya Farmers Market Market
If you want to take back a typical Bahraini souvenir, call in at the A’ali Pottery Workshop. Here you can see potters at work, using traditional methods and ancient kilns. At the Al Jasra Handicrafts Centre in Budaiya, you can also see demonstrations of traditional local industries like cloth and basket weaving, and purchase souvenir items.
A’ali pottery
Al Jasra Handicrafts Centre
Making Halwa
Lastly, food and dining, and my favourites...
Authentic Middle Eastern cuisine is a gourmet’s delight, with its subtle use of natural spices and herbs. And Bahrain has its own specialities. Top on my list, though not unique to Bahrain, is Ghoozi (or Quzi) - a spicy rice based dish with a slowly cooked leg of lamb with roasted nuts is simply mouth-watering. Then there’s Machboos - a delectable rice dish with mixed meats and vegetables, almonds, pine nuts and spices. Grilled Hamour Fish is popular at both expensive dining venues to the more down to earth restaurant chains like Al Abraaj . Their prices are low, the service excellent, and the food exquisite. Just try their Turkish bread, or Kuboos (Lebanese flat bread) that comes hot and fluffy straight from the oven. That alone with some humus will make you come back again.
Red Halwa is an ultra-sweet sweet, and should be eaten in moderate portions. A gelatinous confection is made with sugar and corn flour, with fragrant spices like saffron, cinnamon, cardamom, and pistachio nuts added.
The Adliya district in Manama is a popular with Iranian, Turkish, Iraqi, Indian restaurants and cafes. It’s casual dining here, and can get crowded, particularly at night. The atmosphere is both lively and friendly, and often diners sitting at the next table will start conversations with you. You’ll also come across traditional coffee houses, although these are mainly where older locals gather to chat, play cards and chill out.
Turkish Bread and Humus
Clay oven for making Kuboos
The numerous sights and warmth of the people, makes Bahrain a great holiday destination - a small country maybe, but with a big heart.
Sunset, view from Muharraq
Fact File:
Getting there: Both Gulf Air and British Airways have daily non-stop flights from London Heathrow.
Entry regulations: all visitors need a visa. British nationals can apply online or get one on arrival.
Climate: best months to visit are between October and April.
Currency: 1 Bahrani Dinar = £2 (approx).
Car hire: there are several hire companies with whom you can book online and pick up your car at the airport.
Where to stay: a hotel or apartment in the Manama area is best if you intend to do plenty of sightseeing.
Customs and dress code:
Although Bahrain is more liberal than some other Islamic countries, do remember to respect their laws and customs. There’s ample information available online.
24 images here ©JAYTRAVELPHOTOS
© COPYRIGHT notice. The images on this site are for viewing only.
To purchase any, for personal or commercial use, please contact us at jaytravelphotos@aol.com