Ayers Rock is not just the geographical heart of Australia, it is also its spiritual soul. Formed around 600 million years ago, this gigantic monolith has been held sacred by generations of indigenous Anangu people. Officially recognised in the Guinness Book of Records as the world’s largest monolith, the rock stands 350 metres high and measures a staggering 2.4km long and 1.6km wide, with a circumference of more than 8km. Even more remarkable is the fact that only a tiny proportion of the rock is visible above the ground. Scientists believe that as much as 80 per cent of the rock is buried beneath the ground.
According to Aboriginal legend, Ayers Rock, or ‘Uluru’ as it’s called by the people of the land, was ‘built’ during the certain creation period by children playing in the mud after a heavy rainstorm. Geologists offer a rather different explanation, but whatever its true origins, nothing can prepare you for the first starkly beautiful sight of the red rock set in the vast emptiness of the Australian outback.
Ayers Rock, Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park
Despite being in one of the most remote areas of the world - the nearest city, Alice Springs, is more than 300km away, Uluru is Australia’s best known landmark and attracts huge numbers of visitors from around the globe. But it has long been a source of dispute between the indigenous people and the Australian government.
In 1985, after protracted legal and political battle, the site was handed over to its traditional owners. It has since been leased back to the Australian National Parks and Wildlife Service and is now jointly managed by the Parks Service and the Anangu committee. The community receives a percentage of the profits from tourism in the area and a fragile peace exists between the cultures.
Ayers Rock, Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park
Just outside the Anangu’s sacred land, in sharp contrast to the surrounding shrub land, Ayers Rock Resort sits like an oasis in the desert. The carefully constructed low level architecture (no building is taller than the highest sand dune) aims to be as unobtrusive as possible, while 2300 solar panels provide for much of the resort’s energy needs.
In keeping with his eco-friendly approach, a stay at one of the handful of hotels is designed to be as much about education as is about relaxation. Guests are encouraged to learn about their surroundings in the extensive Visitors’ Centre and library, attend lectures and movie shows on the area’s history, and join nature walks in the ‘native’ gardens.
As a logical extension to the leisure tourism, the resort is now actively courting the conference and incentive markets. By far the most important development in this area to date is the opening in 1994, of the resort’s conference centre, named Uluru Meeting Place. Outstandingly equipped with state-of-the-art audio, video and lighting systems and full video-conference facilities, it is one of Australia’s most modern convention centres. But what really sets it apart is its unique setting.
Like all guests, business clients are gently cajoled to explore rather than stay put. The resort’s facilities are intended to complement the natural environment and there is a range of special packages to entice visitors to experience something of traditional aboriginal culture and belief.
Sun setting over Ayers Rock
Eucalyptus (Gum) trees
Due to the extreme climate (in summer midday temperatures can reach a scorching 40C) the best time for sightseeing is either early morning or late afternoon. As luck and nature would have it, these are exactly the times when Uluru is at its most magnificent. Changes in light, atmospheres and most importantly, the position of the sun cause the rock colour to metamorphose through a variety of shades from soft orange to flame red or even purple.
Ayers Rock, Wave Cave
Sturt’s Desert Pea flowers
One of the most popular tours is an early morning walk around the base of the rock, accompanied by a local guide. The 9 km stroll is taken at an easy pace with plenty of stops to examine ancient cave paintings and learn about the rock’s sacred sites. There’s also a break for a picnic breakfast. The walk which starts off chilly at the dark crack of dawn, soon turns blissfully warm to hot as the sun rises, and it’s hats and sun cream on. Although the outback is notorious for its poisonous snakes, spiders and other creepy crawlies, (a dozen or so species of snakes are found in Uluru area), hardly anyone gets bitten. And as the guide will point out “no worries, just keep to the paths”. Nature lovers will be rewarded by the local flora and birdlife like Galah Parrots.
Although discouraged by local people, tourists have sought to climb the rock. The smooth surface of the stone was no easy challenge. Around 37 people have died in the attempt, either as a result of losing their footing or through heat exhaustion. Thankfully, in 2017, a ban to climb the rock was implemented, because of the spiritual significance of the rock, as well as for safety and environmental reasons.
At the end of the day, cocktails at sunset has become a resort tradition. A small group of guests is driven to a remote bush location and perched atop one of the area’s highest sand dunes to enjoy a stunning view of the sun setting behind the rock while being served champagne cocktails and canapés.
Galah parrots
Olga Gorge
Although Uluru is the area’s main crowd puller, it isn’t the only one. Some 50km from the resort and within the site of Uluru, is another extraordinary rock formation. The Olgas consists of 36 massive stone domes. The aborigines call it Kata Tjuta meaning ‘many heads’. Like Uluru, much of the rock is thought to be below the ground.
One of the most memorable ways to view Kata Tjuta is at one of the regular ‘Sound of Silence’ dinners. A gourmet barbecue of Baramundi fish and Kangaroo steaks is served al fresco beneath the stars, with the darkening shadow of the rocks forming a dramatic backdrop. After dinner, the table lamps are turned off, and in total silence and darkness, diners are invited to listen to the orchestra of insects and night creatures while gazing at the bright canopy of thousands of stars above. Finally, the evening is rounded off with a short performance by a didgeridoo player.
‘Sound of Silence’ dinner
Digeridoo player
The Olgas, at dusk
There are many ways to explore the surrounding area, from self-drive safaris to luxury guided coach tours, or even Aboriginal-led desert treks. But whatever the latest gimmicks or marketing ploys, with 600 million years of history behind it, the enduring powers of the mighty rock speaks for itself and the magic of Uluru continues to cast its spell.
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