The day I arrived in Phnom Penh was beginning of the Water Festival (see separate feature). Having enjoyed myself during this event, I was anxious to see some of the highlights and lifestyle of this compact city.

     Whichever time you decide to visit, it’s going to be hot. I visited in November, when the dry season had begun and the temperatures were slightly lower at about 28C. Although many of the sights are within walking distance, hopping onto a tuk tuk (around 2-3 dollars for a short hop) will ease the strain of midday temperatures.

     I was staying in city centre, overlooking the 3km long Sisowath Quay (waterfront promenade) and Tonle Sap River. It’s a good area, popular with tourists, many hotels, and a good base for sightseeing. The day should begin with a good breakfast, and nothing like a hot steaming chicken noodle soup (for just $3) from the street corner cafe can set you up better.

     You are given a small map highlighting the main structures, but having a guidebook or better still hiring a ‘student guide’ as I did, for $10 was useful. However halfway through we drifted onto chatting about his lifestyle, is family and Buddhism, all which I enjoyed very much. Later I continued to explore on my own.

     The first thing you notice is the spectacular vista of the buildings with gilded roofs, amidst the vast landscaped gardens. And dominating it is magnificent Royal Throne Hall with its three spires. It is the king’s audience hall. Originally constructed in 1870 by King Norodom, and rebuilt in 1919 by King Sisowath it is a stand alone example of classic Khmer architecture. And yes it does resemble some Grand Palace buildings in Bangkok. In the complex are many other grand buildings, surrounded by neatly trimmed hedges, privets, and flora like Frangipani, bougainvillea, cannonball flowers and water lily ponds. Gardeners were at work sweeping away fallen leaves, and ensuring the paths were kept tidy. As I was there early, it was a delight to walk around and enjoy the place undisturbed.

Princess Kantha Bopha  stupa

Ramayana frescoes

     The complex has many other buildings, bell towers and lovely stupas. The Silver Pagoda complex is enclosed by walls, and parts of it are completely covered by Ramayana Frescoes (of classic Indian stories), painted around 1900.

     These two sites were more than what I expected, and a wonderful morning spent. Leaving the premises, past a royal guard I paused to watch a tourist taking a selfie with the guard, who was trying hard to keep an expressionless look. However, as a couple of others started to take photos, he could not help but burst out in a friendly laugh.

     What looks like a temple, next to the Royal palace is the National Museum of Cambodia. The attractive brick-red building contains the largest collection of Khmer sculptures in the world.

Wat Ounalom

     Close to the Royal Palace and also facing the riverside, is the Wat Ounalom (temple). Established in 1443, its main stupa is believed to hold an eyebrow hair of the Buddha. Although many of the buildings were destroyed by the Khmer Rouge (in 1975-79), much has been restored and is the centre of Cambodian Buddhism. Modest in size and complexity, it is still worth a stop to admire its buildings, chedis, sculptures and statues. There is a huge gong depicting flags of ASEAN countries symbolising friendship. It is a also working monastery with many monks residing here.

     From the temple, it’s about a 30 minute walk or 10 minutes by tuk tuk to the tree covered hilltop Wat Phnom. A short flight of stairs will take you up to the main shrine hall. Inside is a glittering large bronze seated Buddha, surrounded by smaller statues in several postures. The walls and ceilings are covered with murals depicting Buddhist stories. Here worshippers bring in their food and floral offering and the atmosphere is peaceful, and the air is infused with the fragrance of burning incense.

     Nearby is also a stupa, several shrines and small spirit houses to worship at. Around the grounds are also some exquisite bas-relief sculptures of  Devatas or Apsaras - female deities or celestial dancers. The temple and picturesque grounds attract wedded couples for photo shoots, and a couple, in smart traditional Khmer wedding attire, kindly permitted me to photograph them.

Norodom Sinahouk Monument

Independence Monument

     Phnom Penh has many green spaces and parks ideal for meandering and people watching. It also has  three important monuments not to be missed. Walk south from the Royal palace area towards Botum Park. Here you’ll find the Cambodia-Vietnam Friendship Monument. The tall concrete structure built in the late 70’s, features heroic statues of soldiers, with mother and baby civilians, and commemorates alliance following the overthrow of the Khmer Rouge regime.

     Proceed further south to the end of the park, and on your right is the long Neak Banh Teuk Park, neatly landscaped with privets and grass areas. Here is The Norodom Sihanouk Memorial to the former king of Phnom Penh. The 4.5 metre statue of him is housed in an open stupa like pavilion.

     At the end of the park is a large roundabout and in the centre is the Independence Monument. This 20 meter high Angkor Wat style (some say lotus bud shaped) tower is a city landmark and was built to celebrate independence from the French in 1953.

Street food, a must

Cambodian sausage on a stick

     Street food is cheap and excellent, an average $1 an item. Grilled meats and tapioca, rice and noodle dishes, Cambodian sausages are common, as well as the more exotic items like insects. The river front restaurants, cafes and bars are busy throughout the day, and the night-clubs in the evenings, when the music adds to the cacophony. But the atmosphere is relaxed and feels safe with locals and tourists mingling and are there just to have a good time.

     If a good time also means ‘shop till you drop’, Then Phnom Penh may disappoint. There are a few shopping centres, but don’t expect luxurious mega malls teeming with designer brands. The city does have its fair share of markets selling high quality local products.

Central Market (Phsar Thmei)

Flower market - Lotus

     The Central Market (Phsar Thmei), is a large art deco building containing hundreds of small shops and stalls, selling crafts, antiques, jewellery, silver and brassware. The building itself is quite interesting with an immense yellow-ochre shaped dome. The clothing section sells everything from traditional attire and sarongs, to knock-offs. In the outdoor part of the market is also a colourful flower market, with lotus, roses, lilies all beautifully displayed.

     Near the Central Market is also the multi storey Sorya Shopping Centre, with almost similar products, but with a food court and is air conditioned.

     I discovered a nice night market too - located at the north end of the riverside promenade. The stalls are bursting with the usual crafts and souvenirs. The friendly vendors constantly try to entice you with their goods, and is a good place to pick up a bargain or two. The lively atmosphere begins around 8 pm with locals expressing their musical talents in song, and dance the night away.

     Despite knowing what I was expecting to see, Phnom Penh was still very much a serendipitous place, enjoyable and memorable, and prepared for me for my next destination - Siem Reap and Angkor.