DENMARK, Copenhagen, Tivoli Gardens illuminations, 1200 with caption

Copenhagen is all work, and all play

DENMARK, Copenhagen, Hans Christian Andersen sculpture, 500 deep

Hans Christian Andersen statue

     Danes work hard in well-run Copenhagen, but that doesn’t blunt their edge for having fun either. Some dub it as the ‘world’s happiest city’- that’s why there’s always plenty to see and do in Denmark’s capital.

     As a venue for doing business, Copenhagen’s virtues are many. Ranked high in the international league of convention cities, the Danish capital had worked hard for its place among Europe’s big boys - and it shows. A modern airport is just 15 minutes from the city centre and operates non-stop flights to more than 140 cities world-wide. The city’s well designed conference venues and hotels are easily accessible and everyone from the CEO to the taxi driver speaks English.

     But Copenhagen has one other advantage not shared by many of its competitors - it knows how to have fun. The old adage about “all work and no play” simply doesn’t apply to Copenhagen as the two coexist with apparent ease.

     Perhaps it’s something to do with the enduring magic of the great children’s writer Hans Christian Anderson, whose spirit  lingers on amid the city’s fairy-tale spires and castles. Or maybe it’s the easygoing nature of the Danes themselves. Whatever the reason, should you find yourself  in Denmark’s little capital with time to kill, you’ll find no shortage of things to do.

DENMARK, Copenhagen, Tivoli Gardens, Chinese Pagoda illuminated, DEN112JPL A 570
DENMARK, Copenhagen, Tivoli Gardens, pleasure boats, lak, DEN151JPL A 550

Tivoli Gardens

DENMARK, Copenhagen, Tivoli Gardens, fun rides, 466

     Topping the bill as the venue for summer entertainment is Tivoli Gardens, Europe’s oldest fun park. Tivoli has been pulling the crowds since 1843 and still gets nearly five million visitors each year, making it the city’s most visited attraction. Rumour has it that it provided the inspiration for Walt Disney’s first theme park. From classical music concerts to roller coaster rides, pantomime and puppet shows to open air theatres, from gourmet dining to shopping, gardens and lakes, Tivoli caters to those aged 3 to 103, and is enjoyed by both locals and visitors alike.

     From May to September, Tivoli has a changing daily programme of events. At night, the restaurants and other park buildings are illuminated with thousands of coloured lights and most evenings are rounded off with a spectacular fireworks display.

DENMARK, Copenhagen, Tivoli Gardens, main entrance, 300 deep

Tivoli Gardens

Our Saviour’s Church

DENMARK, Copenhagen, Vor Frelsers Kirke (Our Saviour's Church spire), DEN162JPL A 458 deep
DENMARK, Copenhagen, city view, from top of Our Saviour's Church, DEN134JPL A 458 deep
DENMARK, Copenhagen, Round Tower (Rundetarn), Spiral Walk, DEN136JPL A 700

Round Tower

DENMARK, Copenhagen, boy browsing in antique shop window, 402 deep

Antique shop browsing

     Tivoli aside, Copenhagen is a charming place in its own right. Surprisingly compact, most attractions lie within a mile of the Town Hall Square. The city sports a range of architectural styles, yet somehow its jumble of spires like the Vor Frelsers Kirke (Our Saviour's Church), domes and gabled houses blend well together. The Round Tower, is a 17th century structure and observatory that also houses exhibitions and concerts.  A walk up the ramp to the top (no lifts here) gives you the best bird’s eye view of the city.

     There is a wealth of antique markets and bookstores to browse in and many streets such as The Stroget are pedestrianized, allowing shops and cafes to spill onto the pavement. Those roads that do allow traffic however are crowded, as cars and bicycles vie for position, especially during the morning and evening rush-hours.

     The Stroget area also has a good selection of department stores, fashion boutiques, second-hand bookstores and antique shops and is a great place for both buying and browsing. Glass, Porcelain, silver and pewter ware are among the locally-made items on sale. Flea markets, often the source of a bargain or two, are held regularly, especially at weekends.

DENMARK, Copenhagen, City Hall, DEN110JPL A 320

Town Hall

DENMARK, Copenhagen, Amalienborg Palace, palace guards, DEN104JPL A 392
DENMARK, Copenhagen, Louis Tussauds Wax Museum, illuminated, DEN173JPL A 520 deep

 Amalienborg Palace guards

Louis Tussaud’s Wax Museum

Little Mermaid

DENMARK, Copenhagen, Little Mermaid sculpture, 270

     One of the most attractive landmarks in Copenhagen is Amalienborg Palace, home of royal family and reigning Queen Margrethe II. Late morning is the best time to visit, when you can catch the changing of the royal guards as they march from their barracks and end up at Amalienborg. The ceremony takes place at 12 noon whenever the Queen is not in residence.

     Like all small cities, Copenhagen is best explored on foot. The old city has some delightful strolling area, such as Amalienhaven Gardens, next to the royal palace. Here, as elsewhere in Copenhagen, an elaborate water fountain forms the gardens’ centrepiece.

     Despite its small size, Copenhagen has a great variety of museums, among them Louis Tussaud’s Wax Museum, and the National Museum which also houses the National Children’s Museum with interactive themes.

     Denmark’s best-loved citizen, Hans Christian Andersen, is commemorated with a bronze statue in the town hall square, while the more famous Little Mermaid statue depicting the tragic heroin of his classic story, sits appropriately on the harbour front, where it is continually washed by the tides. Close to the harbour front is also the Gefion Fountain, which feature a large group of animals driven by the Norse goddess Gefjun.

Gefion Fountain

DENMARK, Copenhagen, Gefion Fountain, 500

Nyhavn

DENMARK, Copenhagen, Old Town, Nyhavn area, DEN102JPL A 800
DENMARK, Copenhagen, Old Town, Nyhavn, waterfront buildings and boats, DEN108JPL A 800

Nyhavn

     In nearby Nyhavn where Anderson once lived and worked, is picture-postcard Copenhagen at its best. The canal side is lined with colourful 18th century merchants’ houses, elegant restaurants and shops. It may be a bit of a tourist trap, but a stroll around the area should not be missed.

     Across the Knippelsbro Bridge is Christianshavn, the heart of the old city, where some of Copenhagen’s oldest churches and houses are located along the banks of the canal.

Christianshavn

DENMARK, Copenhagen, Christianshavn, canalside pleasure boats, 700
DENMARK, Copenhagen, Christianshavn, canalside boats, 465 deep

     Danes take their food seriously and with over 2000 bars and cafes in the capital, eating out is always a pleasure. Some of the city’s best (and most expensive) restaurants are in Tivoli Gardens, but to experience more typical local fare it is necessary to try one of many small bars and cafes, or one of the oldest restaurants, such as Sorgenfri’s on Brolaeggerstraede. With no more than 40 seats, the atmosphere is cosy and sharing a table is the norm rather than the exception. Regular customers are greeted more as friends than paying guests, while the low-timbered ceiling and walls lined with old photographs and paintings add to the feeling of intimacy. The lunch time menu is simple but wholesome - Danish open sandwiches (Smorrebrod), beer and coffee.

     In the more formal restaurants and hotels, the Koldt bord or ‘Cold Table’ - a fixed price buffet of herring, seafood, cold meats and salads is another speciality. Contrary to its name, the Cold Table also includes some hot items, such as stews and meatballs, reflecting the Dane’s love of hearty satisfying meals designed to keep out winter chills.

Frederiksborg Castle

DENMARK, Hillerod, Frederiksborg Castle, DEN144JPL 800
DENMARK, Hillerod, Frederiksborg Castle, Knight's Hall, DEN164JPL 800
DENMARK, Hillerod, Frederiksborg Castle, DEN166JPL A 569 deep

Frederiksborg Castle

     For those who wish to venture out of the city there are several interesting day trips. One of the most impressive is Frederiksborg Castle in Hillerod. Located just 35 km away it is easily accessible both by train or coach tour. The 17th century royal residence was damaged by fire in 1859, but restored to its former splendour in 1882. The elaborate interior and state rooms contain the largest collection of portrait paintings in Denmark.

     In 1996, Copenhagen was officially designated the Cultural Capital of Europe, adding yet another jewel to its crown. Since then at least 50 international festivals from all fields of the visual and performing arts take place in the capital every year. In addition, hundreds of individual projects are organised -  from art exhibitions to young people’s events. All in all, it’s a city packed with culture and celebration. And knowing Copenhagen, every year is also a year of great fun.

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