City breaks usually last two or three nights. Take on Istanbul, and a short stay here is simply futile. It’s a city that cannot be rushed. I made that mistake some years ago, when I tried to see its major sites in a couple of days. This time I made Istanbul a week long holiday, and I was enthralled by the beauty, culture and history of this great metropolis.

     It is one of the few cities in the world that shares two continents. Part of it in Europe and the other in Asia, with the Bosphorus sea dividing the two. It’s also a place where European values fuse with gracious Islamic culture. Guide books and online articles are teeming with incredible sites to visit, that at first, it might be too much to take in. While Google maps will help you find your way around easily, a guidebook is also an essential accompaniment.

     Istanbul is also an ideal walkable city. The old town - Sultanahmet (south of the Bosphorus), is the best place to make your base as many of the major sites are all nearby, and within walking distance.

     Historically, the city was the capital of ancient Byzantine, Roman and more recent Ottoman empire. The result is a treasure-trove of architecture, riches, monuments and amazing structures that you cannot find elsewhere. Despite the power struggles during various invasions and occupations, the city has managed to preserve so much of its  heritage that you cannot help but be impressed.

     Waking up early in the morning to the distinct sound of the first prayers coming from a nearby minaret, and following a hearty breakfast, set me up for a full day sightseeing adventure.

     In the heart of the old town is Sultanahmet Square, surrounded by several major sights to be visited. Much of the area is traffic free with a small parks, the nearby large Gulhane Park, and the Sultan Ahmad Maydan Fountain. It is also an area for an evening stroll, where families and friends gather to socialise, have a snack from a mobile street vendor, sit around the dazzling illuminated fountain and enjoy the cool evening breeze.

     However, this slightly chilly morning I was out there at 8 am,
with few people around, and headed toward the street leading to the famous Topkapi Palace.

Topkapi Palace, Imperial Hall, Sultan’s throne

The Harem, fountain

Topkapi Palace, Fourth Courtyard

Holy Mantle Pavilion

Marble sarcophagus

Iznik tilework on pavilion

     Located by the Topkapi Palace area, Istanbul Archaeological Museum is like no other museum I’ve visited. It is actually a group of three museums, with a wealth of over a million artefacts and objects. One of the outstanding features is the huge room containing marble sarcophagi (coffins dating back to the Roman period). The tombs relief figure sculptures are simply astounding works of art. It is also a place to see elaborate Iznik art (15th century ceramicware from the town of Iznik). Another building is totally dedicated to oriental antiquities.

     Walking amongst the outdoor sculpture gardens, almost makes you feel you were in the middle ages. I rarely spend more than an hour at a museum, but I was so captivated, even after several hours, I had only touched the surface of the riches in these museums. Chatting to a local family who had come from the nearby town, said they were there to spend the whole day and had brought with them their picnic lunches.

Huge medallion, with Medusa’s head

Hagia Sophia, interior

Hagia Sophia, interior

Hagia Sophia, The Mihrab

     Close to the archaeological museum is Hagia Sophia (Ayasofya Mosque), one of the largest cathedrals ever built, and it dates back to around 500 AD. Then in the 15th century the Ottoman empire converted it into a mosque, and in the early 20th century became a museum and UNESCO site.

     However, in 2020, it was converted back into a mosque. Today its pale brick red exterior and architecture make it one of the most beautiful buildings in the city. Step into the softly lit resplendent interior, look up and around and marvel at some masterpieces of mosaic art on walls and ceilings. Then walk up to the upper gallery for a closer look. The blend of Islam and Christianity is ever so evident, with more well preserved mosaic panels of Christ and other Christian images in the upper gallery.

     Just a stone’s throw away from Hagia Sophia, is the Sultan Ahmet Mosque (Blue Mosque). This early 17th century mosque was ordered to be built by the Ottomans and was in direct competition to the Hagia Sophia.  It is an active working mosque. Entrance is free, although it is closed five times a day during prayer time. Therefore it’s best to join the queue and wait. It may seem long, but once opened, the queue moves fast. This is a holy place, and you need to put your shoes in a bag supplied and women of course need head coverings, also provided.

     Once inside the main prayer area, sit on the floor and admire the beautiful tile work, the domes above and the stained glass windows. The name ‘Blue Mosque’ comes from the thousands of Iznik ceramic blue tiles that adorn the interior. There is a giant courtyard and areas to explore. At night, its a beautiful sight when illuminated and its imposing six minarets stand out against the skyline.

Basilica Cistern

Basilica Cistern, Medusa Head column

     The Basilica Cistern is a Roman architectural and engineering wonder. Built by Emperor Justinian in 532AD, it is the largest of several underground cisterns that lie beneath the city of Istanbul. Hard to imagine that these subterranean structures have supplied water to the residents of Istanbul since the sixth century. Once down below, in the quiet dark and dimly lit atmosphere, you get to walk along raised platforms. You can hear the water dripping, from many of the 336 marble pillars, and some have beautiful carvings, like the ‘Crying Column’, depicting large tear drops. At the far end are also two huge Medusa Head columns.

     I love traditional markets and souks, and The Grand Bazaar is one of the oldest and largest covered markets in the world. It dates back to 1460, and today has nearly 4000 shops, 61 covered streets, and is a big tourist attraction, drawing in over 90 million visitors every year. There are 21 gates (entrances) - note the decorative No1 Nuruosmaniye Gate with its coat of arms.

     The atmosphere is mesmerising, and somewhat daunting at first, as it’s so easy to get lost. On my first visit, even having my GPS tracking, I lost my way a couple of times. This labyrinth of mega ‘Alladins Cave’ sells antiques, jewellery, ceramics, copperware, silverware, carpets, clothing and much more. One of the best quality souvenirs to take back is an elegant Turkish tea set, not forgetting to add some Turkish Delight also to your shopping list. It’s busy with vendors and customers darting about, while tourists stroll around gazing at shop fronts.  You’ll see people rushing around with trays full of tea as part of their 'refreshment service’ to vendors.

     One of the best places to spend an evening out is in the Eminonu area by the waterfront and Galata Bridge. It is also where many sightseeing cruises depart. People gather in groups chatting, or sit quietly on a bench as I did, and watch the sunset. There’s a friendly atmosphere, and I found it easy to talk to people as much as they were happy to welcome me as a visitor. From late afternoon till late night the place is full of activity with mobile food stalls selling roasted corn on the cob, chestnuts and Turkish Bagels. As the stirring appetite for dining sets in, it’s time to head towards a waterside restaurant, or other establishments in the vicinity.

     Turkish cuisine renowned and needs no introduction. There’s an abundance of restaurants to suit every price bracket, and wherever you dine, you can expect a friendly and courteous service. Grilled seafood and meats on a stick with vegetables are my favourites and is always beautifully presented. Baklava, is a popular sweet - a pastry with syrup and pistachios, was however a little too sweet for me. Traditionally a meal is rounded up with a helping of Turkish Coffee - slowly heated thick coffee served in a small cup.

Galata Bridge, anglers

Galata Tower

     A walk over the Galata Bridge which spans across the Golden Horn (waterway) leads to the ‘European side’ of the city. Stand halfway along the bridge, and you’re facing north toward Europe and south toward Asia. The bridge is itself is not particularly interesting, but for the rows of anglers with their lines in the waters below absorbed in their quest for catching nothing but tiny fish not much bigger than whitebait. Below the bridge is full with noisy busy restaurants and cafes, and finding a suitable place to dine here quietly is not easy.

     A short distance from the end of the bridge is the Galata Tower. Built during the Byzantine empire period, it was a city landmark and throughout its ‘colourful’ history it has been used as a fire watchtower, prison and an observatory. It has survived earthquakes and fires and has been restored, and today is very much a tourist attraction. There are panoramic views of the city from the top, and you can even join a tour and have breakfast up there.

     The area around the Galata Tower is also worth exploring with narrow winding cobble-stoned streets with small shops and hidden alleyways with restaurants.

Taksim Square

Republican Monument

     Walk further up towards Taksim Square, the more commercial area, with elegant shopping streets and designer stores along pedestrianised (except for trams) Istiklal Avenue. Here you will come across St Antoine Catholic Church built in 1912.

     Taksim area is considered the heart of modern Istanbul, and the square is a popular location for public events, parades and festivals. In the middle on Taksim Square is the Republican Monument to commemorate the formation of the Turkish Republic in 1923. It’s a beautiful monument designed by Italian sculpture Pietro Canonica.

     As much as I enjoyed walking in Istanbul, I also decided to give my feet a rest and take a 90 minute cruise along the Bosphorus. It was a way of having a glimpse of some sites I did not have time to visit, like Dolmabahce Palace, Ortakoy Mosque and the Maiden Tower islet.

     I visited several other sites, and also missed out on some. However, seeing places I did in a leisurely and unhurried manner was rewarding, and tempting a return visit.

Dolmabahce Palace

Ortakoy Mosque