Few cities in Europe can compete with the sheer architectural beauty and glamour of the Czech capital Prague. It takes its pride of place as one of the most popular short-break destinations. I spent a week in October (a good time to avoid the crowds) visiting friends and family and was able to leisurely explore the city. However, as most visitors come on a 3 or 4 day visit, I’ve tried to narrow it down to my preferred ‘not to be missed’ sights.

Vlatava River

Charles Bridge and Vlatava River

Charles Bridge - take a walk across, morning, noon and night

     The focal point of the two sides of the city is its most coveted icon - the pedestrianized Charles Bridge. It was built from 1357 during the reign of the Czech king and Roman Emperor Charles IV. Until 1841, it was the only bridge over Vlatava River connecting the Castle domain and the Old Town. On its balustrade, the stone bridge is adorned with 30 statues of religious figures, saints, and kings, that date back to the 17th century. Many however have deteriorated over the centuries and have been replaced by replicas.

Some of the 30 statues on Charles Bridge

     There are two towers on either end of the bridge, and you can climb to the top of the east tower for some magnificent vistas of the bridge and the city beyond. The bridge can get packed with tourists by midday, so for a clear view, early morning is the best time. However,
I also found the atmosphere quite lively, mingling with the crowds, the artists, the musicians, and souvenir sellers.

Strahov Monastery library

Strahov Monastery library

     Strolling farther downhill, along narrow cobbled streets like Kapucinska Street and Novy Svet street, I passed by beautiful pastel shade houses and the nearby Loreto Church with its elegant facade and clock tower. Another 15 minute walk brought me to Prague Castle, the number one tourist attraction.

A Castle that’s more than just a castle

     Viewed from far away, what you see is not Prague Castle itself but St Vitus Cathedral in the castle compound. Since I was in Prague for a week, I made two trips, as it was too crowded on the first late-morning visit. The next day, I arrived early and was able to spend time more leisurely. There’s so much to see here, it is quite possible to spend an entire day exploring the complex.

Castle on the hill

’The Last Judgement’ mosaic

     From the outside, the 19th-century red brick facade the Basilica of St George can be deceptive. But inside what remains is one of the oldest churches in Prague dating back to the 10th century. Two wrought-iron staircases lead to the apse, and in the dome are remains of 12th-century frescoes. In the early 18th century the Chapel of St John of Nepomuk was built with an ‘ornamental’ looking altar and painted dome.

     Although not much to explore, the Old Royal Palace building’s centrepiece Vladislav Hall with its gothic ceiling is an impressive example of renaissance period art and architecture. It is still used today for state functions and during presidential elections.

Old Royal Palace, Vladislav Hall

     At the time of my visit, the Royal Gardens was closed, but South Gardens was opened to the public. Nearly half a kilometre long, it is neatly landscaped with walking paths, manicured lawns, statues, and flora. It also has marvellous views of the Lesser Town area.

     Leaving the Castle by the main entrance where the palace guards are, by chance, I was in time to watch the Changing of the Guard ceremony.

Prague Castle, South Gardens

Prague House Signs - a well preserved hidden treasure

     From the castle, walking downhill is one of the most interesting streets in Prague. In the ‘olden days’, many houses in the Lesser Town and Old Town did not have house numbers. Instead, they were identified by symbols and signs that denoted the type of establishment or trade it was. While in most European cities these signs have disappeared due to modernisation, in Prague there are hundreds of them lovingly preserved.

Nerudova Street

     Walking down Nerudova Street, you get to see numerous plaques, signs, relief carvings, and pargetting above house doors and entrances. Walk slowly if you don’t want to miss any of them, as you have to cross the street back and forth to see all. Many more can be seen in the Old Town as well. This is one of the best hidden treasures that can be discovered and enjoyed when walking around the city.

House signs in Lesser Town and Old Town

     Further downhill is St Nicholas Church and its huge dome can be seen from most parts of the city. It’s a masterpiece of Baroque architecture, and inside is a monumental work of gilded art and sculptures. So elaborate is the interior, that it glistens with colours of gold and red, brimming with statues, ornate carvings, and paintings. I found a stairway that led up to a balcony from which I could admire some sculptures at eye-level. It is one of the most decorative church interiors I’ve ever seen.

St Nicholas Church

     If you have an afternoon free, take a walk up to Letná Park (Letenské sady). The high elevation affords magnificent views of the curving Vlatava river and several bridges. It’s also a perfect spot for an evening stroll, and as the sun goes down see the city light up and reflect on the river.

View from Letna Park

     For more picturesque views, take a river front stroll. I started my early morning walk along the east side and was spectacularly scenic as the sun rose and the warm colours lit up the city towards the Castle, then gradually turned into a brilliant blue sky all around. Similarly, I did an evening stroll on the other side of the river.

Early morning views

     On the riverside walk, take a detour to the Certovka Canal. Just 750 metres long, it cuts inland from the Vlata River on the Malá Strana (Lesser Town) side. Just behind Charles Bridge, from a small bridge on Na Campe Street is a lovely view that reminded me of the canals in Bruges. There are some river cruises that take you through the canal as well.

Certovka Canal

Wallenstein Palace and gardens

     If you’re spending a little longer in Prague, a visit to Vyšehrad (upper castle), is a good day trip. Just southeast of the city centre, a couple of stops by metro, and away from the crowds is the hillside 10th-century fort. It’s a huge green area with parks, walking paths, and stunning panoramic views from the ramparts. You’ll need about two hours to walk around everywhere. The main attractions of this monumental site are the beautifully maintained cemetery with graves of famous Czechs, the basilica, and the 11th-century Rotunda of St Martin.

Vysehrad park

     Fact File:
     All the sights mentioned can be covered in a 4-night break without rushing. If you can extend your stay further, get a good guidebook, as there are numerous other places to visit within the city and outskirts.
    Visiting Prague Castle:
At the ticket office (inside the complex) you can purchase a ticket giving entry to several buildings and areas in the compound. There are three entrances, and tram No.22 stops  by the western side entrance.
     Dining:
Cafes and restaurants in the busy touristy areas can be expensive, especially around Old Town Square. But venture a little further onto the narrow streets and you’ll find plenty of small restaurants serving typical Czech cuisine.
    Getting there and getting around:
There are daily BA flights from Heathrow, as well as low-cost airlines from other airports. In Prague, nothing is too far away, but the city has an inexpensive excellent tram service and three metro subway lines if you wish to venture to the outskirts of the city.

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